So I've got myself a solid quiver of Hess boards. If I could I would fill in the spot between the 6' Quintara and the 7'5" Noriega with a 6'10"-ish Quintara or Lola. For those days when the smaller boards would leave me drifting with the current, but the 7'5" is more than is needed.
So except that, I don't really have an excuse to go board shopping. I have retained the habit of watching the web for Hess boards and there is a board for sale in Southern California that is very similar to my Pacheco, and for a great price $650! I want to buy it just because it's a great price, and if I could expect the other Pacheco to fall apart in a few years I would make arrangements for the "back-up" board. But I can't fool myself that these Hess boards will be falling apart any time this decade, or ever under my feet. I can imagine giving these boards away to someone who hasn't even been born yet, some kid who I help learn to surf.
So I will hold off on this other Pacheco and keep an eye out for a 6'10"-ish board with slimmer hips than the Pacheco but more paddle than my Quintara. In fact if anyone is out there, I'd trade my 6'1" Quintara for a 6'6" to 7' Lola or Quintara. Please!
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Catch-up on events
Surfed Blacks 2 ft fun warm sunny, not classic Blacks.
Bought a new wetsuit. Went with the same model as last time (oneil mutant) because it fit perfectly. This one is 5/4 and has a better chest closing system. I was complaining about the old one and how it would come loose and the guy at the shop said, "That hasn't happened since the first year they made those suits." We talked more and I found out the suit I'd been wearing was 4+ years old. Not a bad run! With the new suit being thicker and not leaking water I'm sitting out there overheated sometimes. Nice.
Surfed OB several times in December, size range 6-10'. Got the Noriega semi-gun in the water and made some bigger drops, pulled into smaller tubes, paddled against the current and succeeded! Reminded myself that when the waves are 8'+ you have to paddle down the face a few extra strokes. Offshore winds and sunny days!
Picked up a nagging cough that has been sapping my energy making the 6-8' days at OB more of a struggle than they should be. Still fighting it, and hitting the gym, gonna surf tomorrow if it looks good.
Surfed John St. in SC. Not classic, or even very good. More people than should have been out for the conditions. The swell was too north, and the next cove up was 8'+ with a small, scattered crowd. Would have been the call and I might have survived even with the low energy from this cough. Maybe not...
At some point at the gym I hyper-extended my elbow. I should let it rest, but I'm still doing everything I normally do, but at least I'm not doing bar dips, which is when it happened. I'm also adding bicep curls to my workout to try to prevent it from happening again. I also realized that just cardio at the gym isn't enough for a surf workout. I need to do strength/endurance work on my arms, and a bit of strength training on my legs and core. If I start going regularly I should consider making a plan/schedule of what/when/how much.
Spending the poor quality surf days on the smallest board would also be a good idea, as would bodysurfing if conditions dictate.
Bought a new wetsuit. Went with the same model as last time (oneil mutant) because it fit perfectly. This one is 5/4 and has a better chest closing system. I was complaining about the old one and how it would come loose and the guy at the shop said, "That hasn't happened since the first year they made those suits." We talked more and I found out the suit I'd been wearing was 4+ years old. Not a bad run! With the new suit being thicker and not leaking water I'm sitting out there overheated sometimes. Nice.
Surfed OB several times in December, size range 6-10'. Got the Noriega semi-gun in the water and made some bigger drops, pulled into smaller tubes, paddled against the current and succeeded! Reminded myself that when the waves are 8'+ you have to paddle down the face a few extra strokes. Offshore winds and sunny days!
Picked up a nagging cough that has been sapping my energy making the 6-8' days at OB more of a struggle than they should be. Still fighting it, and hitting the gym, gonna surf tomorrow if it looks good.
Surfed John St. in SC. Not classic, or even very good. More people than should have been out for the conditions. The swell was too north, and the next cove up was 8'+ with a small, scattered crowd. Would have been the call and I might have survived even with the low energy from this cough. Maybe not...
At some point at the gym I hyper-extended my elbow. I should let it rest, but I'm still doing everything I normally do, but at least I'm not doing bar dips, which is when it happened. I'm also adding bicep curls to my workout to try to prevent it from happening again. I also realized that just cardio at the gym isn't enough for a surf workout. I need to do strength/endurance work on my arms, and a bit of strength training on my legs and core. If I start going regularly I should consider making a plan/schedule of what/when/how much.
Spending the poor quality surf days on the smallest board would also be a good idea, as would bodysurfing if conditions dictate.
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Wanderlust
I found an excuse to travel to San Diego in November, and here I sit in the La Jolla coffee shop typing about the lack of surf. Actually, let's flip it and talk instead about the drive. I left home after work, dinner, and a quick nap. I drove through the night listening to WTF podcasts to stay awake and arrived in the pre-dawn at Blacks. I don't know the best access, but in the morning light I was able to figure out one. This means that it's entirely possible to make a strike on Blacks with only a single day off of work required. If I see an opportunity I want to capitalize on I can be here by dawn, surf once or twice, sleep the rest of the day and reverse the overnight drive and be back to work a day later. I'm not sure I'd be of much use that day at work, but with my new limited work schedule and the double day field days that I sometimes do in winter, I may not need to do much work if things work out just right.
Furthermore, Blacks is the furthest south spot I would drive that far for, with a few in between I'd like to surf as well, mostly bunched around Santa Barbara.
As for the present surf conditions, the CDIP buoy for Southern California shows 7'@12s from 315deg. I've been told Blacks is my best bet, and I can't really tell from the cliff angle/distance, but to me it looks waist high at best. The shape doesn't look appealing either with rangy walls that close out. I wonder if I was even looking at the right stretch of beach.
And since this is the only time I'll probably ever have a segway between surfing and a podcast, I want to talk about the WTF podcast. It is funny and deep and always entertaining. There is a stereotype of stand-up comics having tortured histories. The host of WTF, Marc Maron, is no exception and he speaks to my own frustrated with everything/nothing dark side. His interviews often try to bring out dark experiences of the comics he interviews. Sometimes he uncovers some deep dark shit, but because the stories are coming from comics they are layered with humor to break the tension. Other times the guest on the show will be a light hearted person without any dark side to uncover, but Marc still finds what makes them tick, what makes them special. With his comic style you might expect him to ridicule the guests softer side (or any side) but he always conducts the interviews with compassion, which helps the guest open up. Unlike a typical interviewer Marc interjects his own experiences as they relate to the topic, sometimes stepping on his guests stories. I thought this was irritating but I now believe it makes the show more conversational, and because Marc is opening up the guest opens up too. If I had the opportunity to talk to Marc about his interruptions I would say, "Keep it up, don't change a thing."
Anyway, this is what happens when I drive all night then have a capichino for breakfast, only to discover free WiFi and nothing else to do.
Furthermore, Blacks is the furthest south spot I would drive that far for, with a few in between I'd like to surf as well, mostly bunched around Santa Barbara.
As for the present surf conditions, the CDIP buoy for Southern California shows 7'@12s from 315deg. I've been told Blacks is my best bet, and I can't really tell from the cliff angle/distance, but to me it looks waist high at best. The shape doesn't look appealing either with rangy walls that close out. I wonder if I was even looking at the right stretch of beach.
And since this is the only time I'll probably ever have a segway between surfing and a podcast, I want to talk about the WTF podcast. It is funny and deep and always entertaining. There is a stereotype of stand-up comics having tortured histories. The host of WTF, Marc Maron, is no exception and he speaks to my own frustrated with everything/nothing dark side. His interviews often try to bring out dark experiences of the comics he interviews. Sometimes he uncovers some deep dark shit, but because the stories are coming from comics they are layered with humor to break the tension. Other times the guest on the show will be a light hearted person without any dark side to uncover, but Marc still finds what makes them tick, what makes them special. With his comic style you might expect him to ridicule the guests softer side (or any side) but he always conducts the interviews with compassion, which helps the guest open up. Unlike a typical interviewer Marc interjects his own experiences as they relate to the topic, sometimes stepping on his guests stories. I thought this was irritating but I now believe it makes the show more conversational, and because Marc is opening up the guest opens up too. If I had the opportunity to talk to Marc about his interruptions I would say, "Keep it up, don't change a thing."
Anyway, this is what happens when I drive all night then have a capichino for breakfast, only to discover free WiFi and nothing else to do.
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Heart Rate Monitor
During some great days last winter I found myself so out of shape I couldn't even make it to the peak. I spend whole sessions on the shoulder trying to paddle against the current and not catching waves. I have since taken action to get into better shape, and one part of that is cardio fitness. I joined a gym (climbing gym with weights and bikes, etc.) and started riding the stationary bikes. Those bikes have heart rate monitors built in and I got curious about my HR during other exercises. I bought myself a Polar FT60 and began playing with it.
I'm going to skip all the functions and featurs discussion and hit at the *heart of the matter. When surfing my HR goes from low 100s when sitting to ~175 when paddling for a wave, or back out with duckdives. When paddling for position or through a rip I'm in the upper 150s. After I'm done paddling my heart rate gets back down into the low 120s in about a minute.
Biking to work in traffic with stoplights, etc. gives me a very similar workout.
Here's the thing, the HRM wants me to spend the largest amount of time in the 135-145range but I don't really know if that's right for me. Surfing seems to be sprint and rest, so shouldn't my workouts be sprint and rest? For now I'm just exercising however as often as I can motivate.
*About using the HRM in the ocean. The HRM isn't perfect and doesn't always pick up my heart rate even on dry land. I tried to use it in Maui while swiming in the ocean and that didn't ever work for me. I have been able to get it to work while surfing, although inconsistantly. I think what's happening is that the wetsuit keeps most of the water off my chest so when I'm not duck-diving the HRM works. If I get washed and my suit flushes the HRM stops working until the water runs out. Or, if the HRM shifts around and slides down then it's shot for the session. One more thing, the HRM is a pod that attaches to a strap and is worn on your sternum. This doesn't work for surfing (paddling problems) but the thing works for me when I put the pod on my back.
I've been doing cardio with some weights for a few months now, inconsistantly, but I've found anything I do to stay in shape for surfing helps, and I think I'll keep doing what I can to keep improving. Can't get barreled if I can't get the wave.
I'm going to skip all the functions and featurs discussion and hit at the *heart of the matter. When surfing my HR goes from low 100s when sitting to ~175 when paddling for a wave, or back out with duckdives. When paddling for position or through a rip I'm in the upper 150s. After I'm done paddling my heart rate gets back down into the low 120s in about a minute.
Biking to work in traffic with stoplights, etc. gives me a very similar workout.
Here's the thing, the HRM wants me to spend the largest amount of time in the 135-145range but I don't really know if that's right for me. Surfing seems to be sprint and rest, so shouldn't my workouts be sprint and rest? For now I'm just exercising however as often as I can motivate.
*About using the HRM in the ocean. The HRM isn't perfect and doesn't always pick up my heart rate even on dry land. I tried to use it in Maui while swiming in the ocean and that didn't ever work for me. I have been able to get it to work while surfing, although inconsistantly. I think what's happening is that the wetsuit keeps most of the water off my chest so when I'm not duck-diving the HRM works. If I get washed and my suit flushes the HRM stops working until the water runs out. Or, if the HRM shifts around and slides down then it's shot for the session. One more thing, the HRM is a pod that attaches to a strap and is worn on your sternum. This doesn't work for surfing (paddling problems) but the thing works for me when I put the pod on my back.
I've been doing cardio with some weights for a few months now, inconsistantly, but I've found anything I do to stay in shape for surfing helps, and I think I'll keep doing what I can to keep improving. Can't get barreled if I can't get the wave.
November offshore
This November has been a good one for OB with regular offshore wind and consistent waves in the manageable size range. Some have even been saying it's been some of the best run of good conditions ever, but I think that's more related to the surf contest that was in town and seeing the same old spot through the eyes of a pro surfer. I don't have any use for surf contests, but it was inspiring to see how well the pros made use of the waves and made me think the waves look better than I would have before.
I've gotten out a few of the days and have had some fun. Nothing epic, but much better than the miserable summer we had. The low tides have been after noon and I've been surfing the better morning wind, so mostly I've been getting offshore groomed but mushy waves (with some juice mixed in to keep me on my toes.)
I've been surfing the Pacheco which has been a good all around board with float to catch soft waves but able to handle the juice when it comes. Yesterday I took out the Quintara and didn't feel like I missed the extra float of the Pacheco. I had one morning a few weeks ago that I would have felt good about the Noriega. I surfed 6-8' Tarval with strong offshores, two other guys out. I would have like to have been able to track down the rangy peaks better, and get in a bit earlier since the lips were throwing wide.
As part of the great waves I've been working on fitness so I can be better prepared for winter this year. I'll expand in a later post.
I've gotten out a few of the days and have had some fun. Nothing epic, but much better than the miserable summer we had. The low tides have been after noon and I've been surfing the better morning wind, so mostly I've been getting offshore groomed but mushy waves (with some juice mixed in to keep me on my toes.)
I've been surfing the Pacheco which has been a good all around board with float to catch soft waves but able to handle the juice when it comes. Yesterday I took out the Quintara and didn't feel like I missed the extra float of the Pacheco. I had one morning a few weeks ago that I would have felt good about the Noriega. I surfed 6-8' Tarval with strong offshores, two other guys out. I would have like to have been able to track down the rangy peaks better, and get in a bit earlier since the lips were throwing wide.
As part of the great waves I've been working on fitness so I can be better prepared for winter this year. I'll expand in a later post.
Thursday, October 13, 2011
Swell of the summer
It was a buzzer beater arriving in September, but before the 21st so still technically summer. I surfed in town Thursday and found Mitchel's overhead on the sets. I surfed a few on the outside of my usual take-off spot but the crowd filled in and I dealt with it by paddling further out and around the corner. I also had thoughts in my head of finding some barrels on the Getchel section like I saw guys do earlier in the summer. It turned out that the drop on the outside was too late and the shoulder to fast and I didn't make it to the bottom on most, and those that I did I didn't make it back up the face. I might have been more successfull on something other than the Pacheco, but it was fun to try.
Next day I did 3mile with JA. The size was causing the 2nd peak to break on the sets, closing out the 1st peak. The 2nd peak was not exciting after the drop, so I dealt with the sets on the head and took smaller waves at the 1st peak. These were tons of fun, even though they didn't really look like it. JA kept guard at 2nd peak and made it over the top of most of the sets, but not into any of them.
Third morning in a row, back to 3mile. Being Saturday morning the crowd was new, wide-eyed and mostly unprepared for the winter like size. I returned to 1st peak for more of the same and had plenty of fun. The Pacheco goes great in those conditions, even though the size was HH+, the softer walls were still plenty of energy to get the wide board running fast.
Next day I did 3mile with JA. The size was causing the 2nd peak to break on the sets, closing out the 1st peak. The 2nd peak was not exciting after the drop, so I dealt with the sets on the head and took smaller waves at the 1st peak. These were tons of fun, even though they didn't really look like it. JA kept guard at 2nd peak and made it over the top of most of the sets, but not into any of them.
Third morning in a row, back to 3mile. Being Saturday morning the crowd was new, wide-eyed and mostly unprepared for the winter like size. I returned to 1st peak for more of the same and had plenty of fun. The Pacheco goes great in those conditions, even though the size was HH+, the softer walls were still plenty of energy to get the wide board running fast.
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
Terrible summer continues
It's been a terrible summer at OB. Somewhere it is less windy and set-up to handle this constant small south swell that's been around all summer, but the wind and chop has made it unridable most of the time at OB. I hear comments about surfable mid-day 1 hour windows now and then, but I'm in no position to take advantage. There have been few bumps in the south swell that justify the drive to less windy and south facing places known to everyone. This is the kind of summer that makes a person compleatly unprepared for the great surf that comes in the fall.
Not me, not this year. I've been exercising a bit trying to maintain sanity and readiness. It's worked, somewhat. I know this because I got in the water for the first time in a few weeks last weekend and my arms weren't compleatly worthless! The waves were, and my feet weren't as solid and all that, but at least I could paddle. Surfing remains the best exercise for staying in shape for surfing, but I've been doing a variaty of arms and cardio to try to stay in shape while staying dry.
Not me, not this year. I've been exercising a bit trying to maintain sanity and readiness. It's worked, somewhat. I know this because I got in the water for the first time in a few weeks last weekend and my arms weren't compleatly worthless! The waves were, and my feet weren't as solid and all that, but at least I could paddle. Surfing remains the best exercise for staying in shape for surfing, but I've been doing a variaty of arms and cardio to try to stay in shape while staying dry.
Saturday, July 30, 2011
Noriega, day 1
I headed south before dawn today on a misguided mission. As I looked at the reef in the 5:00 darkness I realized that this spot doesn't like the negative tide. I headed into town for the spot that Does like that tide and the south that was here, but there wasn't enough swell. I futzed around town, considered going rock climbing, but ended up surfing. I went out to Scotts, which isn't a south swell spot. It was high tide and the waves were 4' and the reminded me of sewers. Peaky bowls with the rare wall but mostly technical drops into zero shoulders.
The board felt good under me. It has float between the wheelwright and buttons so I could chase waves but still do a decent duckdive. I think it will work for me, but I have work to do too. I could feel that I'm weak and couldn't paddle continuously for very long. I thought about which gym exercises I'll do to strengthen for surfing. Let's see if that really happens.
I know I'll appreciate it if I do, and regret it if I don't.
The board felt good under me. It has float between the wheelwright and buttons so I could chase waves but still do a decent duckdive. I think it will work for me, but I have work to do too. I could feel that I'm weak and couldn't paddle continuously for very long. I thought about which gym exercises I'll do to strengthen for surfing. Let's see if that really happens.
I know I'll appreciate it if I do, and regret it if I don't.
Monday, July 25, 2011
Making space
I got the Wheelwright sold, I'm giving away the kneeboard, and I'm still trying to sell the Buttons. All this is an effort to clear out the closet a bit and refocus my surfing efforts to those boards I regularly ride, and add one to fill in a gap. If I'm going to continue to surf OB throughout the year, then I need to add a board that paddles better than my Pacheco, but still duck-dives well. And it should have a narrower tail while I'm at it. There are days out at OB that are big, but not scary big, just exciting big. I've tried the Haut2 but didn't have the paddle to stay in position, let alone get to the peak. I tried the Buttons is the same situation and had the same problem.
So, as I'm writting this I go over to the Hess blog to link a picture of a Noriega, which is a board I think would fit this gap, and here's what I find. "Monday, July 25, 2011Personal Noriega semi-gun For sale" WTF? It's kismet for sure! I already sent the "I'll take it!" email, let's hope that nobody already offered him for it, since it was first posted 5 hours ago.
So, as I'm writting this I go over to the Hess blog to link a picture of a Noriega, which is a board I think would fit this gap, and here's what I find. "Monday, July 25, 2011Personal Noriega semi-gun For sale" WTF? It's kismet for sure! I already sent the "I'll take it!" email, let's hope that nobody already offered him for it, since it was first posted 5 hours ago.
Friday, July 22, 2011
Jetty Memories Session
Last week I had work on the coast and kept an eye on conditions. It was more than breezy but not blown out. There was a south swell in the water. I called JZ and his suggestion was the Jetty. It's been a very, very long time since I've surfed there. That was the first place I rode waves when I was in 5th grade (or there-abouts) just riding whitewater strait into the sand. The beach has changed with sand migrating out and no harbor dredging replenishing it. Even so it still has days when the rebound wedge is working and it's surfable. This was one of those days and even though there were 10 people in the water, I still figured I'd get some waves. I caught several, and JZ even shared a peak with me that was my best wave of the day. My balance at the take-off tipped me so that my shoulder was right in the pocket, kinda stuck in that position as the wave reeled along and my board kept pace. It felt good. It ended up being a relativly short session, but with better waves than I've ridden in awhile and playfull fun. I rode the Pacheco and it felt fine, despite still only having basecoat wax on it. JZ gave me a few scraps of sticky wax so hopefully the next session will be solid.
Forecast for this weekend doesn't look too good.
Forecast for this weekend doesn't look too good.
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Double-dip = 1/2 Session
Last Saturday I got up at 3:15AM to arrive at Ona before first light. Waxed up the new board and followed Darrel down the beach. He and I surfed for an hour or two with no other takers. I got one sorta good wave and a lot of typical Ona crapa. I headed into Davenport and had a wonderfull breakfast and enough coffee to motivate me for a second session. At 10AM the north coast was still clean and I jumped on the first surfable spot I found, which was the rights at the south end of Davenport Landing. What I saw from the beach was peaky/bowls with some long walls to run and nobody out. What I saw from the water was shifty sucking ledges with steps coming up the face on the take-off. A few near freefall drops with no shoulders to run, but mostly paddling back and forth, in and out and never landing a winner.
I think I've cured myself of the dawn at Ona tendancy. I think nobody else came because there were waves at all the other spots. I expected wind but instead it was clean. I think the call would have been Waddell Reefs...
I think I've cured myself of the dawn at Ona tendancy. I think nobody else came because there were waves at all the other spots. I expected wind but instead it was clean. I think the call would have been Waddell Reefs...
Friday, July 8, 2011
Pacheco
I almost drove out to the beach this morning for a surf, even though the conditions are bad up here. On the surf report webpage there was a link to a report on the carbon footprint of surfing. As I know, driving to the beach is the largest CO2 emitting action surfers take. I decided to save my CO2 for a day with better chances of being fun. I was considering biking to work to offset my "surfing carbon", but got lazy and ran out of time and went to my car. It wouldn't start, so I biked to work anyway! Being a scientist with an atmospheric background I feel guilt for being wasteful in any way because I know how these things contribute to the problems our society has. It gets to the point that I feel guilty about everything, then I snap and feel no guilt and the process starts over again.
I picked up the new Hess Pacheco a few weekends ago. The surf that day was going from bad to worse and by the time I picked up the board there was no way I was surfing. The next weekend I had plans with the wife and, even though we went to Santa Cruz, I did not surf. It's getting to the point that I need to just get wet, and with no signs of improvement in the forecast, that may be just what I do. Now, thinking about the CO2 footprint and all that, and since I only biked to work twice this week (not enough to offset the trip to the beach) I'm considering trying for the bus to beach again.
The photo is the new Pacheco on the left and the Quintara on the right. I think the aged and sun-darkened Quintara looks nicer than the fresh Pacheco. This photo also shows the difference in the templates very well. In person, at a more perpendicular angle the Pacheco looks like the wide point is forward of center and the Quintara looks like the wide point is back from center.
I pulled out my fin collection and found some interesting things. First, the original Haut fins are different than what I had on the Haut2. The front fins were similar, but the rear fins of the Haut were smaller, and set and the back of the box as compared to the Haut2.
When I bought the Quintara, the guy gave me two sets of fins. The ones that came with the board are more similar to the Haut fins, but the other set that I used are more similar to the Haut2 fins. I've decided that I'm going with the smaller rear set on both Hess boards and I'll see how they feel. (I probably can't tell the difference!)
What I need (and have needed for a long time) is a week of surfing where I can surf more than 2 hours in a day and really get the feeling of surfing again. It's been too long with marginal waves and short rides. Working in Berkeley inhibits surfing good waves.
Monday, June 6, 2011
New Spot
Beach access around Moss Landing is difficult. The reason for this is because much of the area is state park or nature reserve. The result is that it's hard to check the whole stretch of beach break, but also if you find something away from a main parking lot you'll probably surf alone. This is in contrast to Ocean Beach where there is continuous access to the full 4 mile stretch.
Yesterday my work took me to Watsonville and, after a check with the guy at Manresa to verify that was not worth surfing, I went to Moss. Moss had one peak that was actually crowded, which was a surprise to see that many people surfing there. There were several bars along the beach but only that one had surfable waves with all the rest creating shifty close-outs. The sun was peaking from behind the clouds and the wind was offshore, so I really wanted to get some waves. I decided to drive further south because the direction of the wind would make it more offshore than side shore in that direction.
I ended up at Monterey Dunes where I found a crowded parking lot but only a few fisherman on the beach. There was a peak working right at the end of the trail and I got a few waves there before the tide filled in and made that particular bar soft. When I came in the bar down the beach was no longer closing out and looked good, but I had other things to do that day and my shoulders were tired anyway.
Overall it was a good day at a new spot I'd never even checked before. The waves were fun, but smaller than Moss. I also wish I knew what Pajaro Rivermouth looked like. And I'm also curious how hard it would be to get to the Salinas Rivermouth. Perhaps that's where some of the owners of the cars in the lot were. I swear some of those trucks belonged to surfers and not just fisherman, but I never saw anyone that looked like a surfer walk by.
Yesterday my work took me to Watsonville and, after a check with the guy at Manresa to verify that was not worth surfing, I went to Moss. Moss had one peak that was actually crowded, which was a surprise to see that many people surfing there. There were several bars along the beach but only that one had surfable waves with all the rest creating shifty close-outs. The sun was peaking from behind the clouds and the wind was offshore, so I really wanted to get some waves. I decided to drive further south because the direction of the wind would make it more offshore than side shore in that direction.
I ended up at Monterey Dunes where I found a crowded parking lot but only a few fisherman on the beach. There was a peak working right at the end of the trail and I got a few waves there before the tide filled in and made that particular bar soft. When I came in the bar down the beach was no longer closing out and looked good, but I had other things to do that day and my shoulders were tired anyway.
Overall it was a good day at a new spot I'd never even checked before. The waves were fun, but smaller than Moss. I also wish I knew what Pajaro Rivermouth looked like. And I'm also curious how hard it would be to get to the Salinas Rivermouth. Perhaps that's where some of the owners of the cars in the lot were. I swear some of those trucks belonged to surfers and not just fisherman, but I never saw anyone that looked like a surfer walk by.
Monday, May 30, 2011
Hesitation
I've got a $1400 board on the way, and I'm getting into climbing, and it's been a terrible spring for surfing. All these things have combined in my head and I was ready to sell off a few surfboards. I say was, because as I was scraping wax and composing my craigslist addvert in my head, the story I was telling made me think I want to hold onto these boards a bit longer.
I was considering selling the Buttons and the Wheelright. These are two single fin boards in the shape of the 70's transition shapes. I've learned from riding these boards that they work well in hollow waves when all I want to do is sit deep. The narrow tails stall back into the pocket without as much up the face twisting as wider tailed boards. The wide point forward helps them drop into waves, but the rocker makes it hard to make late drops because they are longer but flat and don't handle the transition at the bottom of the wave. Something about the tail or rails makes it hard to take the late drop more sideways, like I can do on my Haut2.
But, when things come together the Buttons feels so good in hollow waves. It's just not floaty enough to be a bigger wave board at OB. I've taken it out on bigger days and the current was too much for me to move around. The Wheelright would probably have enough paddle, but it's a bit to big to duckdive solidly. I feel like I'd like to have a board that is in the middle, but until then, maybe I should keep them both...
No hesitation on giving up the kneeboard. I should probably gift it to someone on the kneeboarding website. I had some great waves on that board, but the last time I surfed it the feeling was so foreign that I didn't want to be riding it.
So I need to get my head strait and then get to posting on craigslist. I should also to a bit of lurking first to see what I should charge for these boards. My sense is that used boards aren't selling for as much because the economy is still slow.
I was considering selling the Buttons and the Wheelright. These are two single fin boards in the shape of the 70's transition shapes. I've learned from riding these boards that they work well in hollow waves when all I want to do is sit deep. The narrow tails stall back into the pocket without as much up the face twisting as wider tailed boards. The wide point forward helps them drop into waves, but the rocker makes it hard to make late drops because they are longer but flat and don't handle the transition at the bottom of the wave. Something about the tail or rails makes it hard to take the late drop more sideways, like I can do on my Haut2.
But, when things come together the Buttons feels so good in hollow waves. It's just not floaty enough to be a bigger wave board at OB. I've taken it out on bigger days and the current was too much for me to move around. The Wheelright would probably have enough paddle, but it's a bit to big to duckdive solidly. I feel like I'd like to have a board that is in the middle, but until then, maybe I should keep them both...
No hesitation on giving up the kneeboard. I should probably gift it to someone on the kneeboarding website. I had some great waves on that board, but the last time I surfed it the feeling was so foreign that I didn't want to be riding it.
So I need to get my head strait and then get to posting on craigslist. I should also to a bit of lurking first to see what I should charge for these boards. My sense is that used boards aren't selling for as much because the economy is still slow.
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
A new kind of quiver
When climbing the rock faces like those at Yosemite, a lead climber puts devices into cracks in the rock, and then connects the rope to the devices. These devices are intended to catch a falling climber. There are different shapes and styles of these devices, and just as many companies that make these different devices. Every climber that wants to do this kind of climbing needs to buy many of these devices and the climber's collection is called their "rack."
Why am I talking about this? Well, on my 35th birthday my wife organized a trip to the local climbing gym. I was hooked right away because it offered consistent hours, convenient location, and physical challenges, among other things. Last weekend I took a two day class to learn the skills to climb outside. Now it's time to build my own rack. For the price of a new surfboard I can have a decent starter rack that would get me outside. That's still around $500, which isn't money I can throw around, so I'm considering selling off some of my quiver to build my rack. My goal is a multi-pitch single day climb in Yosemite, and it may happen this summer or next. After that I'll be able to re-asses my interest in the sport. My concern is that the rock doesn't change so after doing a particular climb a few times it may become boring. In that case to find more excitement you have to go find a different rock somewhere. The advantage to surfing is that once you find a surf spot, every day and every wave is a bit different. Ocean Beach is the extreme example of this.
At the moment I'm more interested in buying the climbing gear than selling some surf gear, but I think both should happen. I'm ready to clear out the kneeboard, the spare 70's backyard board, and the Buttons board. That would leave me the flexspoon project, the GeeBee, the Haut2, the QQ Hess and the Pacheco Hess which is on the way. I'd move the Haut2 to Santa Cruz to have in case I'm ever there without a board. I'd be willing to part with the QQ if I could get a reasonable offer, and the 4 board massive reduction in quiver size would help justify the purchase of a Hess SFOB semi-gun for those 8-12' heavy current days. I'm not sure if I would be able to handle those days even with the right board, but I'd like to be able to. Hopefully climbing will keep me in a bit better shape for surfing (as compared to doing nothing.)
Why am I talking about this? Well, on my 35th birthday my wife organized a trip to the local climbing gym. I was hooked right away because it offered consistent hours, convenient location, and physical challenges, among other things. Last weekend I took a two day class to learn the skills to climb outside. Now it's time to build my own rack. For the price of a new surfboard I can have a decent starter rack that would get me outside. That's still around $500, which isn't money I can throw around, so I'm considering selling off some of my quiver to build my rack. My goal is a multi-pitch single day climb in Yosemite, and it may happen this summer or next. After that I'll be able to re-asses my interest in the sport. My concern is that the rock doesn't change so after doing a particular climb a few times it may become boring. In that case to find more excitement you have to go find a different rock somewhere. The advantage to surfing is that once you find a surf spot, every day and every wave is a bit different. Ocean Beach is the extreme example of this.
At the moment I'm more interested in buying the climbing gear than selling some surf gear, but I think both should happen. I'm ready to clear out the kneeboard, the spare 70's backyard board, and the Buttons board. That would leave me the flexspoon project, the GeeBee, the Haut2, the QQ Hess and the Pacheco Hess which is on the way. I'd move the Haut2 to Santa Cruz to have in case I'm ever there without a board. I'd be willing to part with the QQ if I could get a reasonable offer, and the 4 board massive reduction in quiver size would help justify the purchase of a Hess SFOB semi-gun for those 8-12' heavy current days. I'm not sure if I would be able to handle those days even with the right board, but I'd like to be able to. Hopefully climbing will keep me in a bit better shape for surfing (as compared to doing nothing.)
Saturday, March 12, 2011
No man is happy till he dies
"No man's happy 'till he dies," - Tom Waits Misery's the River of the World
Which a paraphrase of, and possibly an alteration to the meaning of line in a play by Aeschylus, and ancient Greek playwright, which gives the concept age.
I sit at work or at home and wish I was at the beach surfing. It is completely in my power to go, yet I hold back for various reasons and dream of the situation being different. I imagine what I would do if I won the lottery. I try to build the confidence to take a month off work. But I doubt myself that is really what I want.
I've been reading "All for a Few Perfect Waves" by David Rensin. It's a biography of Miki Dora, and I've gotten through the 60's to the point in Miki's life that he is about to leave California. While in California Miki would cheat, lie, and steal; do anything to avoid real work and stay free to surf. He would also visit museums, poetry readings, and other more intellectual pursuits. I read this book and it kindles my feeling that I'm spending too much time working and not enough time seeking adventure and "living life." Miki once graphically charted the rise and fall of surfing. The chart contains a small dip during the rising phase which Miki simply called the "Willie House" tragedy. The author of the biography got the story from Willie House as follows (paraphrased.)
Willie House: There were actually three tragedies which combined. The first was having to move away from the beach to be the sole provider for my daughter. The second tragedy was having to quit my sandal shop and take more steady work as a gardener. The third was the result of the first two and everything else in life being that I don't surf much any more.
The "tragedy" is repeated constantly with other surfers. I knew about it and wanted to avoid it, yet I'm succumbing to it now. My plans were not set in stone and so they changed in ways I didn't want It seems like everyone else wants me to do things that pull me away from surfing, and I'm not strong enough to overcome them all.
Yet I know it's my choice. I'm slave to no one, there are no indentured servants. I'm not in jail, or on parole. So it is me who is holding myself back. Why?
Is it fear? Yes, I fear loosing my job if I take too long a vacation. If I loose my job I fear not finding another one that's as good. It's also fear of loosing my wife because I'm neglectful. It's fear of spending money now that I need later. It's fear of being uncomfortable (i.e. getting sick, cold, lost, robbed.)
Is it not what I really want? This I don't know the answer to. I think the reason has something to do with not having done it yet. I've taken surf trips and vacations and I always enjoy the experience, but would I still if I was alone and/or the time was longer than a week? How can I know until I try? What if I risk my life as it is and find out that what I had I want more than what I chased. What if I take two weeks and come home only to wonder if I'd be happier if I took a month? And that brings me back to the title of this entry. Will I always be chasing happiness?
But to go beyond that possibility, is the understanding that I will always be chasing happiness any reason to stop trying? When my wife and I were discussing moving back to the beach town she reminded me that even when we lived there I was unhappy at times. I got used to getting to surf and then complained about the surf not being good enough. My response was that if I was unhappy one less day a week, isn't that worth the effort to move back? Yet, given the power to make a compromise happen (move to a different beach) I balked. I had reasons, but it was my choice and I made it to stay in the situation I'm in.
The Choice
The intellect of man is forced to choose
perfection of the life, or of the work,
And if it take the second must refuse
A heavenly mansion, raging in the dark.
When all that story's finished, what's the news?
In luck or out the toil has left its mark:
That old perplexity an empty purse,
Or the day's vanity, the night's remorse.
William Butler Yeats
One concept that I've drawn from this poem is that to achive perfection in either life or work you give up most of the other. To me, the better path is the middle one, yet I look at the benifits of the extremes and wish I had those too.
No man is happy untill he dies, and maybe not even then.
Which a paraphrase of, and possibly an alteration to the meaning of line in a play by Aeschylus, and ancient Greek playwright, which gives the concept age.
I sit at work or at home and wish I was at the beach surfing. It is completely in my power to go, yet I hold back for various reasons and dream of the situation being different. I imagine what I would do if I won the lottery. I try to build the confidence to take a month off work. But I doubt myself that is really what I want.
I've been reading "All for a Few Perfect Waves" by David Rensin. It's a biography of Miki Dora, and I've gotten through the 60's to the point in Miki's life that he is about to leave California. While in California Miki would cheat, lie, and steal; do anything to avoid real work and stay free to surf. He would also visit museums, poetry readings, and other more intellectual pursuits. I read this book and it kindles my feeling that I'm spending too much time working and not enough time seeking adventure and "living life." Miki once graphically charted the rise and fall of surfing. The chart contains a small dip during the rising phase which Miki simply called the "Willie House" tragedy. The author of the biography got the story from Willie House as follows (paraphrased.)
Willie House: There were actually three tragedies which combined. The first was having to move away from the beach to be the sole provider for my daughter. The second tragedy was having to quit my sandal shop and take more steady work as a gardener. The third was the result of the first two and everything else in life being that I don't surf much any more.
The "tragedy" is repeated constantly with other surfers. I knew about it and wanted to avoid it, yet I'm succumbing to it now. My plans were not set in stone and so they changed in ways I didn't want It seems like everyone else wants me to do things that pull me away from surfing, and I'm not strong enough to overcome them all.
Yet I know it's my choice. I'm slave to no one, there are no indentured servants. I'm not in jail, or on parole. So it is me who is holding myself back. Why?
Is it fear? Yes, I fear loosing my job if I take too long a vacation. If I loose my job I fear not finding another one that's as good. It's also fear of loosing my wife because I'm neglectful. It's fear of spending money now that I need later. It's fear of being uncomfortable (i.e. getting sick, cold, lost, robbed.)
Is it not what I really want? This I don't know the answer to. I think the reason has something to do with not having done it yet. I've taken surf trips and vacations and I always enjoy the experience, but would I still if I was alone and/or the time was longer than a week? How can I know until I try? What if I risk my life as it is and find out that what I had I want more than what I chased. What if I take two weeks and come home only to wonder if I'd be happier if I took a month? And that brings me back to the title of this entry. Will I always be chasing happiness?
But to go beyond that possibility, is the understanding that I will always be chasing happiness any reason to stop trying? When my wife and I were discussing moving back to the beach town she reminded me that even when we lived there I was unhappy at times. I got used to getting to surf and then complained about the surf not being good enough. My response was that if I was unhappy one less day a week, isn't that worth the effort to move back? Yet, given the power to make a compromise happen (move to a different beach) I balked. I had reasons, but it was my choice and I made it to stay in the situation I'm in.
The Choice
The intellect of man is forced to choose
perfection of the life, or of the work,
And if it take the second must refuse
A heavenly mansion, raging in the dark.
When all that story's finished, what's the news?
In luck or out the toil has left its mark:
That old perplexity an empty purse,
Or the day's vanity, the night's remorse.
William Butler Yeats
One concept that I've drawn from this poem is that to achive perfection in either life or work you give up most of the other. To me, the better path is the middle one, yet I look at the benifits of the extremes and wish I had those too.
No man is happy untill he dies, and maybe not even then.
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Margins
I've had a few good sessions that I've been hesitant to post because of the semi-secret nature of these spots. The fact that I know about them and surfed there means they are not real secrets, but they are definitely below the radar of most surfers, and are guarded by skilled and aggressive local crews. I am just barley skilled and aggressive, but I wanted to talk out how I make it work.
Margins. With the number of surfers these days if the conditions are good on a weekend then where ever it is good is also going to be crowded. The better it is, the harder it is for me to get waves, especially if I go to a point/reef spot with a narrow take-off zone. So I hit the margins. What I mean by margins could be a few things. It could mean that the weather isn't all that great like the winds is side-shore or light onshore, or it's raining, or very cold, but still surfable. It could mean that the tide isn't quite right. Either it's the part of the tide that isn't yet low/high enough or the tide wont get quite low enough for that spot to really do it's thing, etc. The point is that the local crew would look at the conditions and have reason to hesitate to go surf. That's when I surf.
I have two examples of this working for me. Both spots need big swells and low tides. Both times I paddled out before the tide was right and got waves before the crowd.
One because it takes 30min to get from where you park to the wave, so if you wait to see the first good set hit then it's 45min before you catch one. We didn't wait and caught a wave out of that first set, and then a few more before the crowd got to it.
The other because at the higher tide the wave catches backwash and doesn't have much shoulder. It was cold and rainy and there was junky wind on the ocean, I surfed for an hour and a half by myself and caught all kinds of "marginal" waves. It was getting better the whole time and the crowd filled in rather quickly, but I stayed out for another 30min until there was no more room for me to get waves.
Both sessions left me feeling satisfied even though I didn't get the best waves of the day.
One thing about the margins is that some "margins" have disappeared with more and more people surfing. It used to be that surfing at dawn in Santa Cruz was a margin, but now it's one of the most crowded times of the day! I used to surf a break that was rather crappy no shoulder backwashy nothing spot, a margin that I could get with very few others out. Now it is filled whenever a wave breaks out there.
Lastly, I consider margins different than seams. Seams are the better part of a day/tide/swell when for whatever reason there are fewer people in the water. I think about hitting the seam in the way a running back does, finding an opening among the crowd to get what I want. The morning after the Super Bowl, World Series, or whatever when so many people are sleeping off a hangover missing great waves is a seam. The 45 min between the dawn patrol crew and the later morning crew is a seam. The 4th day of a great swell when the waves are still really good but most people have gotten all the waves they want is a seam. The wave that swings wide/short and hits a different part of the reef/point from where everyone is sitting is a seam. Hitting the seam often requires being at the beach waiting, watching, and jumping when the seam opens. Seams can't be planned for, you just have to take advantage of the opportunity. Margins are more predictable but less rewarding in some ways.
Margins. With the number of surfers these days if the conditions are good on a weekend then where ever it is good is also going to be crowded. The better it is, the harder it is for me to get waves, especially if I go to a point/reef spot with a narrow take-off zone. So I hit the margins. What I mean by margins could be a few things. It could mean that the weather isn't all that great like the winds is side-shore or light onshore, or it's raining, or very cold, but still surfable. It could mean that the tide isn't quite right. Either it's the part of the tide that isn't yet low/high enough or the tide wont get quite low enough for that spot to really do it's thing, etc. The point is that the local crew would look at the conditions and have reason to hesitate to go surf. That's when I surf.
I have two examples of this working for me. Both spots need big swells and low tides. Both times I paddled out before the tide was right and got waves before the crowd.
One because it takes 30min to get from where you park to the wave, so if you wait to see the first good set hit then it's 45min before you catch one. We didn't wait and caught a wave out of that first set, and then a few more before the crowd got to it.
The other because at the higher tide the wave catches backwash and doesn't have much shoulder. It was cold and rainy and there was junky wind on the ocean, I surfed for an hour and a half by myself and caught all kinds of "marginal" waves. It was getting better the whole time and the crowd filled in rather quickly, but I stayed out for another 30min until there was no more room for me to get waves.
Both sessions left me feeling satisfied even though I didn't get the best waves of the day.
One thing about the margins is that some "margins" have disappeared with more and more people surfing. It used to be that surfing at dawn in Santa Cruz was a margin, but now it's one of the most crowded times of the day! I used to surf a break that was rather crappy no shoulder backwashy nothing spot, a margin that I could get with very few others out. Now it is filled whenever a wave breaks out there.
Lastly, I consider margins different than seams. Seams are the better part of a day/tide/swell when for whatever reason there are fewer people in the water. I think about hitting the seam in the way a running back does, finding an opening among the crowd to get what I want. The morning after the Super Bowl, World Series, or whatever when so many people are sleeping off a hangover missing great waves is a seam. The 45 min between the dawn patrol crew and the later morning crew is a seam. The 4th day of a great swell when the waves are still really good but most people have gotten all the waves they want is a seam. The wave that swings wide/short and hits a different part of the reef/point from where everyone is sitting is a seam. Hitting the seam often requires being at the beach waiting, watching, and jumping when the seam opens. Seams can't be planned for, you just have to take advantage of the opportunity. Margins are more predictable but less rewarding in some ways.
Saturday, January 22, 2011
Stop It
I thought I'd reached a comfortable place with the surfboards I had. I've lost interest in Bonzers, realized that my Haut2 is a great board for me in most conditions, but I still have a few options to mix it up when I feel like it. Someh
how I converted that feeling into wanting a Hess version of the Haut2, "so I would have it always." At least that's the logic in my head. The thing is, I already have one I ride, and a cracked one in the rafters to model future ones after. When I realized I was chasing boards again I just said, "Stop IT!"
Now I realize the name I chose for this blog is "Surf Quiver," and now I'm talking about not expanding or rotating my quiver, but geeze, don't I already have enough? The logical answer is yes, the emotional answer is no, I want to keep playing. So here's the compromise I'm at with myself now.
1) If I find a used, < $1,000 Hess that is close in size/shape to the Haut2 I'll take it. The justification is that a new one is $1,400 or more so if I can score the right used one before I bust the Haut2 I will jump, otherwise I'll be getting a custom one sometime down the road.
2) Kneeboard. I still enjoy the kneeboard experience when I know the waves will be super hollow. I haven't ridden it in awhile, so I can't justify getting a new one until I bust the old one. And I mean 2 pieces or something similar that requires major repair. Until then I'll do crap patches and ride it once in awhile.
3) I already have a bunch of boards and lately I've only ridden two. I should ride the Hess I do have, come summer I'll ride the GeeBee, and I have the flex-spoon if I get it tuned and get into shape. Then there's the body surf and mat surf option that I haven't done recently.
Speaking of getting into shape, the wife and I joined a rock gym last night. I got kinda excited because I found a bouldering route I thought I could do but couldn't quite. I get bored "working out" but if I have a game or something to make it interesting I can rather easily get into shape. If my grip wasn't so weak today from 45min bouldering yesterday I'd go again tonight (I still might anyway) and hopefully this will be my non-surf exercise that will keep me from going soft between Saturday surfs.
how I converted that feeling into wanting a Hess version of the Haut2, "so I would have it always." At least that's the logic in my head. The thing is, I already have one I ride, and a cracked one in the rafters to model future ones after. When I realized I was chasing boards again I just said, "Stop IT!"
Now I realize the name I chose for this blog is "Surf Quiver," and now I'm talking about not expanding or rotating my quiver, but geeze, don't I already have enough? The logical answer is yes, the emotional answer is no, I want to keep playing. So here's the compromise I'm at with myself now.
1) If I find a used, < $1,000 Hess that is close in size/shape to the Haut2 I'll take it. The justification is that a new one is $1,400 or more so if I can score the right used one before I bust the Haut2 I will jump, otherwise I'll be getting a custom one sometime down the road.
2) Kneeboard. I still enjoy the kneeboard experience when I know the waves will be super hollow. I haven't ridden it in awhile, so I can't justify getting a new one until I bust the old one. And I mean 2 pieces or something similar that requires major repair. Until then I'll do crap patches and ride it once in awhile.
3) I already have a bunch of boards and lately I've only ridden two. I should ride the Hess I do have, come summer I'll ride the GeeBee, and I have the flex-spoon if I get it tuned and get into shape. Then there's the body surf and mat surf option that I haven't done recently.
Speaking of getting into shape, the wife and I joined a rock gym last night. I got kinda excited because I found a bouldering route I thought I could do but couldn't quite. I get bored "working out" but if I have a game or something to make it interesting I can rather easily get into shape. If my grip wasn't so weak today from 45min bouldering yesterday I'd go again tonight (I still might anyway) and hopefully this will be my non-surf exercise that will keep me from going soft between Saturday surfs.
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Lincoln Lefts
Three Sundays ago I headed out to the beach after hearing that the north end was < 8'. When I got there I saw it was more like +8' but there was a nice peak in front of VFWs and a rip 100 yards north that looked good. I had brought the Buttons and I jumped in the rip. I got out without much trouble, but then couldn't escape the rip in the direction of the peak I wanted. I paddled for 30min and made no progress, so I decided to paddle in while I still had strength. I paddled hard and got just inside the sandbar when a set came and cleaned up the rip. I took a few trips to the bottom on the first wave, and a few more trips on the next few waves. Nothing enough to hurt, but a bang on the sand is never fun. The following weekend looked much the same and I sat it out. But this last Saturday...
I got to the beach after breakfast, which was around 10am. JZ was amped to hit it because it was about head high and sunny with offshores. We went to Lincoln lefts where the outer bar was hitting, but the paddle around the north side of the peak was easy. I've been fighting a cold so it took me awhile to make it out since I didn't have much sprint. I did make it out, but was forced to take it easy and wait for waves, rather than chase around with JZ like I normaly do. I moved around only as much as I needed to to spread the minor crowd and stay in the general area of the shifty lefts. It turned out to work in my favor as several waves came to me. The best of the lefts were 6-8' walls that were holding up for longer rides. I even got a pigdog barrel that was witnessed (partially) by JZ. It felt good to get some waves without much punishment.
After an hour a rip replaced the peak I was at and JZ and I started paddling around trying to find what was working next. After I got a wave I saw his board floating on the inside. I spent what strength I had sprinting to it and got to it just as a bigger wave was about to send it another 20 yards in. I ditched my board to hang at the end of the leash while I held position on JZs board, ducking waves and trying to find the swimming head of my friend. By the time he got to me I realized I had cramped up my calf during the effort and I called it a day.
All in all a good day. I skipped it on Sunday even though it was probably much the same. Green mucus in the morning and plans for the evening lead me to believe sleeping most of the day would be a good idea.
I got to the beach after breakfast, which was around 10am. JZ was amped to hit it because it was about head high and sunny with offshores. We went to Lincoln lefts where the outer bar was hitting, but the paddle around the north side of the peak was easy. I've been fighting a cold so it took me awhile to make it out since I didn't have much sprint. I did make it out, but was forced to take it easy and wait for waves, rather than chase around with JZ like I normaly do. I moved around only as much as I needed to to spread the minor crowd and stay in the general area of the shifty lefts. It turned out to work in my favor as several waves came to me. The best of the lefts were 6-8' walls that were holding up for longer rides. I even got a pigdog barrel that was witnessed (partially) by JZ. It felt good to get some waves without much punishment.
After an hour a rip replaced the peak I was at and JZ and I started paddling around trying to find what was working next. After I got a wave I saw his board floating on the inside. I spent what strength I had sprinting to it and got to it just as a bigger wave was about to send it another 20 yards in. I ditched my board to hang at the end of the leash while I held position on JZs board, ducking waves and trying to find the swimming head of my friend. By the time he got to me I realized I had cramped up my calf during the effort and I called it a day.
All in all a good day. I skipped it on Sunday even though it was probably much the same. Green mucus in the morning and plans for the evening lead me to believe sleeping most of the day would be a good idea.
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