Swell of the summer

It was a buzzer beater arriving in September, but before the 21st so still technically summer. I surfed in town Thursday and found Mitchel's overhead on the sets. I surfed a few on the outside of my usual take-off spot but the crowd filled in and I dealt with it by paddling further out and around the corner. I also had thoughts in my head of finding some barrels on the Getchel section like I saw guys do earlier in the summer. It turned out that the drop on the outside was too late and the shoulder to fast and I didn't make it to the bottom on most, and those that I did I didn't make it back up the face. I might have been more successfull on something other than the Pacheco, but it was fun to try.
Next day I did 3mile with JA. The size was causing the 2nd peak to break on the sets, closing out the 1st peak. The 2nd peak was not exciting after the drop, so I dealt with the sets on the head and took smaller waves at the 1st peak. These were tons of fun, even though they didn't really look like it. JA kept guard at 2nd peak and made it over the top of most of the sets, but not into any of them.
Third morning in a row, back to 3mile. Being Saturday morning the crowd was new, wide-eyed and mostly unprepared for the winter like size. I returned to 1st peak for more of the same and had plenty of fun. The Pacheco goes great in those conditions, even though the size was HH+, the softer walls were still plenty of energy to get the wide board running fast.