The last 5 or so sessions I've had have been on a mat. The waves have been varied and so have the results. Yesterday I was out at head-high Ocean Beach with light offshore winds at low tide. The crowd was thick but manageable. The most notable thing is how much trouble I was having when caught inside. OB isn't the easiest place to paddle out but having the mat in somewhat juicy waves I found that its more of a challenge than a hard board. Still I persevered and succeeded.
The next thing I noticed was that the skilled short boarders were going faster than I was. I could tell because they were making waves that I wasn't. I still got some waves and when I got the right one it was great to get a fast pocket ride. As the tide filled in and the waves softened, so did the crowd. I ended up getting several great waves at that point.
So yesterday I found the 0-60 limit (since I believe I could have made waves if I had the tiniest bit more time to accelerate) and I've found the smallest & softest limit last weekend at Bo' and I pushed the big and bumpy limit at tre mile. I also learned that there are times when the mat works better than anything else in the water, such as small onshore John st. Another point is that yesterday I took the bus(es) to the beach. With the mat it's just one more lump in my bag. A surfboard would have been an ordeal, especially when the bus gets packed with people. So the mat is much more portable than any surfboard.
That leaves me to think its time to try a hard board again, see what that feels like under me feet. I will also bring my mat, and consider it more often now that I've gotten a better feel for it. My goal is to have the right board for the conditions, and sometimes a mat is the right "board."
Saturday, March 30, 2013
Tuesday, March 26, 2013
Distracted
Can't get into work today because I'm distracted by thoughts of surfing. This isn't at all unusual, but what is unusual is that I'm thinking about surfing a mat. I have a 5GF in the mail heading to my house, I've given up getting new fins and decided instead to modify the ones I have. I started last night by simply carving out a bit more room in the fin strap for the inside ankle bone. One struggling utility knife cut on each fin and I stopped. I should smooth out the ragged edge of the cut with some sandpaper before I put them back on. If I can find my old fin socks I think I'll cut the sides off and see how they feel with the fins. Then later I'll take more material off the ribs of the fins to see if I can get the blades to flex more, hopefully taking some stress of my ankles.
The surf forecast isn't good, but there looks to be hope for late Sunday, or some beach break any morning if conditions clean up. I was reviewing the entries for last year's mat tube of the year and I think the waves I've gotten (but not photographed) this year could have been real contenders. It's inspiring me to stop worrying about looking doubly weird (surf mat + head camera) and just have fun with it.
Some of the tubes I missed a few weekends back were because I slipped out and down the face. This can be a real bummer because not only do you loose your line but you also run the risk of taking the lip on the head, which happened at least once that session. There are three things I will do in the future. The first two are technique: drop the outside rail and drag the inside fin. The first puts more mat drag on the face of the wave which keeps things up the face. I've been pushing the outside rail with my hand, but I want to further the effect by putting more body weight on the outside rail thereby engaging more of the mat surface. The second (fin drag) is counter productive if speed is needed, but not all tubes are racers and in some cases the extra drag may be just what I need. I've already played with fins in/out of the wave and can feel the difference. The biggest difference is with fins in the water I'm less likely to start going sideways. Sideways isn't always a problem, but if I need to be going fast, sideways isn't what I want. And the third is the purchase of the 5GF mat, which is advertised as holding well in steep and large waves. From what I can gather the 5GF is smaller (narrower at least) than the other mats, but I'm living up to my blogger handle, even if I'm riding surf mats.
So hopefully by this time next week I'll have some video footage of riding the surf mat and maybe even have edited it and found somewhere to host and post it.
The surf forecast isn't good, but there looks to be hope for late Sunday, or some beach break any morning if conditions clean up. I was reviewing the entries for last year's mat tube of the year and I think the waves I've gotten (but not photographed) this year could have been real contenders. It's inspiring me to stop worrying about looking doubly weird (surf mat + head camera) and just have fun with it.
Some of the tubes I missed a few weekends back were because I slipped out and down the face. This can be a real bummer because not only do you loose your line but you also run the risk of taking the lip on the head, which happened at least once that session. There are three things I will do in the future. The first two are technique: drop the outside rail and drag the inside fin. The first puts more mat drag on the face of the wave which keeps things up the face. I've been pushing the outside rail with my hand, but I want to further the effect by putting more body weight on the outside rail thereby engaging more of the mat surface. The second (fin drag) is counter productive if speed is needed, but not all tubes are racers and in some cases the extra drag may be just what I need. I've already played with fins in/out of the wave and can feel the difference. The biggest difference is with fins in the water I'm less likely to start going sideways. Sideways isn't always a problem, but if I need to be going fast, sideways isn't what I want. And the third is the purchase of the 5GF mat, which is advertised as holding well in steep and large waves. From what I can gather the 5GF is smaller (narrower at least) than the other mats, but I'm living up to my blogger handle, even if I'm riding surf mats.
So hopefully by this time next week I'll have some video footage of riding the surf mat and maybe even have edited it and found somewhere to host and post it.
Sunday, March 24, 2013
Matting the Bo
Headed north this time. Small south swell and junky north swell and wind so I opted for somewhere that would remove the north swell and face the wind offshore. High tide early in the morning so I took my time leaving the house. I arrived a bit after high tide and watch SUPs riding the far side of the channel. Not much to brag about, but it was the only part of the channel working. Either the bar is blown out or there just wasn't enough swell. I watched for awhile and decided it was good enough for a mat session. I was able to score some of the better waves, but that's not saying much. Just one that was 3' (overhead!) and doubled up. There was enough wave size that I was able to drop down the front wave and rocket down the line with the speed.
As the tide dropped the waves just disappeared. As I was crossing the channel to get back to my side of shore I caught a handful of waves where they were pounding the inner bar. Few were ride-able and it was hard standing in waste deep water with the channel water pushing me hard further out. Every other set would produce a wave with enough angle that I could get in and go for a short while before the thump. A few split seconds inside the tube and it was over. Dang it, I keep deciding against wearing the GoPro. I need to clear that hurdle.
Just put in an order for a 5GF (on special) which I've read is a good tube riding mat. I hope so, and I also look forward to the day when a friend asks if they can ride the mat, and I'll have two, so we can both go to it.
It's been two weeks since I first tried to order DuckFeet from Dr. Deets. After the first responses from him suggesting what size I need, I've gotten nothing back. I wonder what's up?
As the tide dropped the waves just disappeared. As I was crossing the channel to get back to my side of shore I caught a handful of waves where they were pounding the inner bar. Few were ride-able and it was hard standing in waste deep water with the channel water pushing me hard further out. Every other set would produce a wave with enough angle that I could get in and go for a short while before the thump. A few split seconds inside the tube and it was over. Dang it, I keep deciding against wearing the GoPro. I need to clear that hurdle.
Just put in an order for a 5GF (on special) which I've read is a good tube riding mat. I hope so, and I also look forward to the day when a friend asks if they can ride the mat, and I'll have two, so we can both go to it.
It's been two weeks since I first tried to order DuckFeet from Dr. Deets. After the first responses from him suggesting what size I need, I've gotten nothing back. I wonder what's up?
Sunday, March 17, 2013
More Matting
Took Friday afternoon to go into town. There was a small swell and some wind so I opted for Its Beach. The side wave was working and I waited for the three friends to finish before I got in. I got a few crazy waves trying to hold a line in the bumpy, ledgy mess. I got one solid tube run that ended with me landing hip first in 0 feet of water. I knew nothing was broken but the pain was enough to cause me to just sit there for awhile, not sure whether I should mope on the beach or go back and try it again. I went back out and got a few more, but when a wipeout cause the fin to pull my leg and twist my knee more than I was comfortable with I decided that was enough. Next time I'll bring smaller fins. I wonder how that tube would have looked in slo-mo?
I hung around the beach as the day ended, grabbed two slices and a pint from Upper Crust, and when the sun was low enough to make the air cold I crossed town to my parents place. Nobody was home and I was pretty tired. I gathered the energy to hang my suit near the heater, but not to take a shower. I tried to watch TV but TV sucks so I turned it off and fell asleep in the chair. At some point I turned in the chair and hit my hip and was startled awake by the shock of pain. I moved myself to the bed and slept through till morning.
I got up before dawn having done the math on when to leave so I hit the beach at first light. I stopped for coffee and donuts and parked by the side of the road in the darkness. My bag was packed with a half dry wetsuit and I headed down the trail with a flashlight in hand. I only needed it once (to get through the fence) but after that I enjoyed a slow walk in the darkness down to the beach. I wasn't the first one there, I saw fresh footprints on the beach, but I couldn't see the form of the waves. I suited up in the dark and watch other people arrive. By the time I got into the water I could see the waves were good enough but not great. I opted to not put on the GoPro, which turned out to be a mistake. The outside was small and jumbled but the second peak was breaking well. The larger overhead waves would just roll the edge of the reef, but there were enough small ones swinging to the inside that it was worth waiting for. I got a few good waves to get the feel of the mat. As I gained confidence in myself and that the other surfers weren't going to drop in on me /every/ time I moved to the best spot to run at the hollow inside section. I got plenty of waves in two hours with a few narrels and a few close-out barrels. I'm sure the morning light would have made the barrels look good, even though there was a thin overcast all morning.
The crowd changed from hesitant adults to aggro youths and I called it a day. I was having so much fun I thought I'd stay out longer, but I'm glad I ended when I did because today my body hurts from all the exercise.
So, on my list is:
Overnight trips to SC more often,
Get "medium" fins between the huge heavy fins and tiny fins I have. I've put in my request, so now I wait.
Put the freakin' camera on!
Research how to hold a line in the barrel on a mat.
I hung around the beach as the day ended, grabbed two slices and a pint from Upper Crust, and when the sun was low enough to make the air cold I crossed town to my parents place. Nobody was home and I was pretty tired. I gathered the energy to hang my suit near the heater, but not to take a shower. I tried to watch TV but TV sucks so I turned it off and fell asleep in the chair. At some point I turned in the chair and hit my hip and was startled awake by the shock of pain. I moved myself to the bed and slept through till morning.
I got up before dawn having done the math on when to leave so I hit the beach at first light. I stopped for coffee and donuts and parked by the side of the road in the darkness. My bag was packed with a half dry wetsuit and I headed down the trail with a flashlight in hand. I only needed it once (to get through the fence) but after that I enjoyed a slow walk in the darkness down to the beach. I wasn't the first one there, I saw fresh footprints on the beach, but I couldn't see the form of the waves. I suited up in the dark and watch other people arrive. By the time I got into the water I could see the waves were good enough but not great. I opted to not put on the GoPro, which turned out to be a mistake. The outside was small and jumbled but the second peak was breaking well. The larger overhead waves would just roll the edge of the reef, but there were enough small ones swinging to the inside that it was worth waiting for. I got a few good waves to get the feel of the mat. As I gained confidence in myself and that the other surfers weren't going to drop in on me /every/ time I moved to the best spot to run at the hollow inside section. I got plenty of waves in two hours with a few narrels and a few close-out barrels. I'm sure the morning light would have made the barrels look good, even though there was a thin overcast all morning.
The crowd changed from hesitant adults to aggro youths and I called it a day. I was having so much fun I thought I'd stay out longer, but I'm glad I ended when I did because today my body hurts from all the exercise.
So, on my list is:
Overnight trips to SC more often,
Get "medium" fins between the huge heavy fins and tiny fins I have. I've put in my request, so now I wait.
Put the freakin' camera on!
Research how to hold a line in the barrel on a mat.
Monday, March 11, 2013
Springtime, OBSF
Springtime conditions yesterday morning. This means jumbled med-small waves that make me feel like I never learned how to surf. I turned a blind eye to reality and went out anyway. I guess you could say it was an experiment since I opted for the surf mat. I didn't know how well it would work in the conditions, but now I do!
I started out mid-beach at the only peak that looked remotely interesting. I had my big (modded) fins and hit the water at the "channel" just north of the peak. By the time I made it out I was several blocks north. The waves in that zone were terrible, and I couldn't see another surfer anywhere. I opted to turn around and swim it back in. It was a long walk back to the car, I bet I looked like a wet donkey sulking down the beach.
Afterwards I saw several people (8-ish) around the north end. I didn't see any great rides, but because it was smaller they were able to overcome the jumble and ride waves.
Still, I'm interested in mat surfing after the one good day and one not-bad day recently. I just started the process to get new fins, I hope they do the trick. If not I'll return to cutting and sanding on the fins I have.
I started out mid-beach at the only peak that looked remotely interesting. I had my big (modded) fins and hit the water at the "channel" just north of the peak. By the time I made it out I was several blocks north. The waves in that zone were terrible, and I couldn't see another surfer anywhere. I opted to turn around and swim it back in. It was a long walk back to the car, I bet I looked like a wet donkey sulking down the beach.
Afterwards I saw several people (8-ish) around the north end. I didn't see any great rides, but because it was smaller they were able to overcome the jumble and ride waves.
Still, I'm interested in mat surfing after the one good day and one not-bad day recently. I just started the process to get new fins, I hope they do the trick. If not I'll return to cutting and sanding on the fins I have.
Tuesday, March 5, 2013
Surf Mat
I want to get into writing my impressions from two surf mat sessions. The first was a week back on a Friday. I went down to SC to check John St on a low tide. The swell was too north and not much was making it in, and the wind was knocking the waves down a bit. I was sitting and watching not feeling up to it when I remembered I brought my surf mat. I looked at the waves with that in mind and thought I might be able to make some use of the poor conditions. The best part is there was only one guy out, so after seeing a 4 waves set I decided to give it a go.
By the time I got to the lineup the other guy had just about given up. I saw him ride one wave that was a drop, struggle with the bump, and not make the first section. He never paddled back out and I was on my own. I caught some waves a figured out which ones would work best for me. I ended up getting rides as long as I would have had I been on my Pacheco, and if it was bigger and cleaner. It was quite a surprise and I was enjoying it. I guess others were watching because not long after 3 guys paddled out. They sat a bit further down the line and I felt a twang of guilt as I rode waves past them and paddled back out deeper than them. After a few of those they just started dropping in anyway. I figured if I caught them I would say something, but I never did so no worries.
It got to be a bit uncomfortable with them around so after riding one in I tried a spot down the reef a bit. I got lucky and caught one behind Getchel section and connected it down around and through to the climb up cove. It was a long, fast ride on a small but well formed little wave. I paddled back to where I caught that wave and waited, but soon realized there were very few waves making it down to that part of the reef. After watching a few sets roll through John I paddled back up. Same guys were there and I had the same problems with them catching the waves a section ahead of me.
Eventually they left and, to my surprise, I was now making all the waves I caught! It took me awhile to realize that those guys who were taking off down the line were snowballing me. Now that they were gone I was zipping along past where they were dropping in. I continued until I got tired and went in happy.
The next session was this weekend. The swell was due Friday but didn't show until Saturday. After staying home Friday I got out Saturday at dawn to 3 miles with JB. The waves were overhead but not shaped well, even for 3 mile. I opted to take the surf mat out in some size and see if it could connect the soft spot between the outside and 2nd peak. The suddenly steep drop that 3 mile throws at me was a bit hard to handle one the mat because I don't have the benefit of legs to absorb the drop. Instead, if I free fell at all it would result in bouncing which I couldn't always recover from. One wave I free fell, bounced, started to recover when the lip hit me and started me bouncing again.
I did learn something from this bouncing though. Don't try to maintain control by wrapping an arm under the mat. It worked as I was in mid-air but stalled me like hitting a skeg fin in the kelp once I regained the water surface. It caused me to suck back up the face and go for a lip launch ride. I ended up loosing the mat and while still being held under by the wave I had already set the intention that I was going to have to sprint swim in to save my mat from the rocks. I broke the surface and took half a look back at the waves to see if there was danger coming before I committed to swimming in. I'm glad I did cause right there behind me was my mat. In the moment of relief at not having to push my tired body to catch my mat I floated for a moment half reaching for the mat. I don't know why (since we were both in the water) but the mat was moving out or I was moving in and the distance was increasing quickly. I awoke from my false sense of security and kicked myself to the mat just in time to pull everything through a wall of whitewater.
Before the session JB was skeptical as to my choice of wave riding vehicles. He'd never seen one before and politely wondered what the heck I was up to. I told him to watch my rides and be honest if he thought I was going any faster than others on regular boards. After the session he said he couldn't tell if I was going faster but I was making it as far as anyone, and I was catching more waves than anyone else. From my perspective I wasn't doing what I wanted which was connecting those two take-off spots, so it wasn't a complete success. I did get some good enough rides and, considering the conditions, was glad I gave the surf mat a try. Another thing is that this spot, while not shapely, is a longer ride than I normally get at OB and this alone is a good reason to get the mat out there. I need more time on a wave to get used to the controls and get a feel for how to ride the mat. I forgot to bring my GoPro and now wish I had so I could re-examine the rides I got. No "tubes" so there wouldn't have been any entries to the 2013 Mat Tube Ridding comp Link, but still.
By the time I got to the lineup the other guy had just about given up. I saw him ride one wave that was a drop, struggle with the bump, and not make the first section. He never paddled back out and I was on my own. I caught some waves a figured out which ones would work best for me. I ended up getting rides as long as I would have had I been on my Pacheco, and if it was bigger and cleaner. It was quite a surprise and I was enjoying it. I guess others were watching because not long after 3 guys paddled out. They sat a bit further down the line and I felt a twang of guilt as I rode waves past them and paddled back out deeper than them. After a few of those they just started dropping in anyway. I figured if I caught them I would say something, but I never did so no worries.
It got to be a bit uncomfortable with them around so after riding one in I tried a spot down the reef a bit. I got lucky and caught one behind Getchel section and connected it down around and through to the climb up cove. It was a long, fast ride on a small but well formed little wave. I paddled back to where I caught that wave and waited, but soon realized there were very few waves making it down to that part of the reef. After watching a few sets roll through John I paddled back up. Same guys were there and I had the same problems with them catching the waves a section ahead of me.
Eventually they left and, to my surprise, I was now making all the waves I caught! It took me awhile to realize that those guys who were taking off down the line were snowballing me. Now that they were gone I was zipping along past where they were dropping in. I continued until I got tired and went in happy.
The next session was this weekend. The swell was due Friday but didn't show until Saturday. After staying home Friday I got out Saturday at dawn to 3 miles with JB. The waves were overhead but not shaped well, even for 3 mile. I opted to take the surf mat out in some size and see if it could connect the soft spot between the outside and 2nd peak. The suddenly steep drop that 3 mile throws at me was a bit hard to handle one the mat because I don't have the benefit of legs to absorb the drop. Instead, if I free fell at all it would result in bouncing which I couldn't always recover from. One wave I free fell, bounced, started to recover when the lip hit me and started me bouncing again.
I did learn something from this bouncing though. Don't try to maintain control by wrapping an arm under the mat. It worked as I was in mid-air but stalled me like hitting a skeg fin in the kelp once I regained the water surface. It caused me to suck back up the face and go for a lip launch ride. I ended up loosing the mat and while still being held under by the wave I had already set the intention that I was going to have to sprint swim in to save my mat from the rocks. I broke the surface and took half a look back at the waves to see if there was danger coming before I committed to swimming in. I'm glad I did cause right there behind me was my mat. In the moment of relief at not having to push my tired body to catch my mat I floated for a moment half reaching for the mat. I don't know why (since we were both in the water) but the mat was moving out or I was moving in and the distance was increasing quickly. I awoke from my false sense of security and kicked myself to the mat just in time to pull everything through a wall of whitewater.
Before the session JB was skeptical as to my choice of wave riding vehicles. He'd never seen one before and politely wondered what the heck I was up to. I told him to watch my rides and be honest if he thought I was going any faster than others on regular boards. After the session he said he couldn't tell if I was going faster but I was making it as far as anyone, and I was catching more waves than anyone else. From my perspective I wasn't doing what I wanted which was connecting those two take-off spots, so it wasn't a complete success. I did get some good enough rides and, considering the conditions, was glad I gave the surf mat a try. Another thing is that this spot, while not shapely, is a longer ride than I normally get at OB and this alone is a good reason to get the mat out there. I need more time on a wave to get used to the controls and get a feel for how to ride the mat. I forgot to bring my GoPro and now wish I had so I could re-examine the rides I got. No "tubes" so there wouldn't have been any entries to the 2013 Mat Tube Ridding comp Link, but still.
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