Wednesday, April 21, 2010

The Three Bears of Hess

I've ridden the HessQQ (Quinara Quad) three more times now. Once I ended up at overhead 3mile. It was big enough to make duckdiving hard and move enough water around that I got tired just trying to get to the take-off spot. At the same time it was breaking soft and hard to get into. Once in there wasn't enough power to get me going much, at least on the waves I caught. Blah, any other board I own would have been better, probably... Papa Bear, to much water moving.

The next time was a pre-work surf with work friends at Linda Mar. The north end did have some shoulder high waves with a bit of push at the start. Some even had shape on the inside. I got some good waves but would have been better served by the Haut2. But other than that it was sunny, warm, and glassy with few people in the water competing for waves... Mama Bear, to small and soft.

The next day I went to catch some south at Waddel Reefs. The tide was low and the swell was about head high, with a few bigger. It was great! Some steep ones and attempted barrels. One I'll count as a long narrel (not a barrel, nearly a barrel.) A few other guys out there were getting in the pit but for the most part I was holding my own, even though I was paddling all around never staying lined up for very long. Not that I was getting pushed off the reef, just that it felt crowded and I was trying to find waves uncontested. Overall that is the kind of wave I should be riding on the HessQQ... Baby bear, just right.