Three Sundays ago I headed out to the beach after hearing that the north end was < 8'. When I got there I saw it was more like +8' but there was a nice peak in front of VFWs and a rip 100 yards north that looked good. I had brought the Buttons and I jumped in the rip. I got out without much trouble, but then couldn't escape the rip in the direction of the peak I wanted. I paddled for 30min and made no progress, so I decided to paddle in while I still had strength. I paddled hard and got just inside the sandbar when a set came and cleaned up the rip. I took a few trips to the bottom on the first wave, and a few more trips on the next few waves. Nothing enough to hurt, but a bang on the sand is never fun. The following weekend looked much the same and I sat it out. But this last Saturday...
I got to the beach after breakfast, which was around 10am. JZ was amped to hit it because it was about head high and sunny with offshores. We went to Lincoln lefts where the outer bar was hitting, but the paddle around the north side of the peak was easy. I've been fighting a cold so it took me awhile to make it out since I didn't have much sprint. I did make it out, but was forced to take it easy and wait for waves, rather than chase around with JZ like I normaly do. I moved around only as much as I needed to to spread the minor crowd and stay in the general area of the shifty lefts. It turned out to work in my favor as several waves came to me. The best of the lefts were 6-8' walls that were holding up for longer rides. I even got a pigdog barrel that was witnessed (partially) by JZ. It felt good to get some waves without much punishment.
After an hour a rip replaced the peak I was at and JZ and I started paddling around trying to find what was working next. After I got a wave I saw his board floating on the inside. I spent what strength I had sprinting to it and got to it just as a bigger wave was about to send it another 20 yards in. I ditched my board to hang at the end of the leash while I held position on JZs board, ducking waves and trying to find the swimming head of my friend. By the time he got to me I realized I had cramped up my calf during the effort and I called it a day.
All in all a good day. I skipped it on Sunday even though it was probably much the same. Green mucus in the morning and plans for the evening lead me to believe sleeping most of the day would be a good idea.
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