It's been quite a year

We all have plenty of reasons to consider 2020 a year to remember. Recently I realized I have a really good reason: multiple new spots surfed!

I don't know what happened but something clicked for me at the end of last year, or maybe early this year. I had always checked other spots, but was also more focused on getting the best out of the more well known spots. Clearly those well known spots are well known because the wave quality is high and the effort to get there is low. But this year I tried more new spots than ever before. The reward has been lower quality waves with far, far fewer people competing for them. As a way to savor the memories, I'm going to attempt to list them from North to South. In an attempt to hide this from google searches, I'll use "gamer text."

Lagoon Beach, Po!nt @rena, Fl@t R0ck, @lligat0rs, the far inside of Greyh0und Ruck, R0ckie Po!nt, Funboards, G@ng!es left and right.

Not included in the list are the places that I didn't exactly surf for the first time ever, but surfed more times in this year that all the other times combined. Most of these spots have some degree of hiking adventure that goes along with surfing them, but a couple are just a short stroll from a parking spot. Some are a far drive from home, others closer to home than where I typically surf. Some have views of barnacle encrusted rocks that have to be avoided, others have boils indicating holes in the reef. Only one is all sand-bottomed, but another is mellow enough that there's no risk of bouncing off the reef.

Also, the year isn't over yet and there are many places I have been checking but haven't found in good enough conditions to surf. There's one more weekend before the end of the year and more swell in the forecast. Work will take me to the beach tomorrow and maybe I should lock in one more spot while I have the chance. But then again, none of these spots were surfed just for the novelty of saying I did it. Each one was the best opportunity that presented itself that day, so I kinda don't want to break that run. I guess I'll have to go check some spots and see what looks good tomorrow.

*Next day edit: I only kinda forced it, but I'm really glad I did. I always thought Ro$$' C0ve was a mushy boring wave, but today at least it pitched me with the lip a few times. It was hard to surf because it was really shifty. It was breaking kinda soft on the outside, rolling through the middle, then hitting hard inside. I tried to sit more inside and pick off just the right one, and take sets to the head. But when caught by a set it wasn't to hard to duck dive. I was on my small board and wished I had a bit more paddle power to slide in earlier. I actually think a full gun would be a reasonable choice out there.

Alligators

I surfed a new spot. It was surprisingly good and I don’t know what to do except try to make notes and see if I can get it good again. 

High tide of at least 4-ft. Swell around 8-ft at 14sec from 305. Sensitive to the wind. 

Tomorrow dawn I’m going to meet JB at tres mile. 

I'm thankfull for my quiver

I'm thankful that I have the freedom to surf those other waves. Santa Cruz has more than its share of really fun longboard spots. I hardly ever surf them because it is just so crowded. Instead, I venture north to out of the way places where people don’t congregate. Most of those other places have waves that are are less friendly to longboards and instead I ride a short board. Or sometimes a surf mat, or paipo, or on the rare occasion even do some bodysurfing. 

Having the equipment and ability is a gift I appreciate. 

I've said it before...

Every once in awhile I need a reminder that the best way to be disappointed is to build up my expectations. Luckily, this time the reminder was vicarious. JA shared a video of great waves with JZ and JB. (I got the message third hand.) Both JB and JZ made weekday surf travel plans to go get some of those waves. The end of day report back from both of them was that it wasn't as good as the video day (less than 24-hour earlier). They both seemed more bummed having surfed "not as good as expected" waves than I was having not surfed the "not as good as expected" waves. One difference, I didn't have any expectation of scoring. 

I was only bummed that when asked, neither of them had much story to tell. That was my expectation that was not met.

Holiday Waves

It is a tradition that the ocean has been keeping for there to be a good swell and perfect weather for Thanksgiving. Unlike our family, the ocean was able to keep this tradition despite the pandemic gripping our country and most of the world. Because 2/3 of our family has the entire week off, I also planned for a week long vacation at my parents cottage in Santa Cruz. The swell and weather was forecast to arrive, and in my stoke I brought 6 different surfboards with me.

Sunday the conditions weren't great, but I rushed up the coast and forced 4 waves in poor conditions. The weather was warm and I haven't been out in awhile, so I was happy for what I got. Monday was a family day that ended with me checking in on my work projects to find others hadn't done what was needed by the time it was needed. My stress level went way up and I frantically typed away on the borrowed laptop trying to deal with the situation. Tuesday was spent working at a makeshift "desk" that was a kitchen counter and sitting on a footstool ladder.  Wednesday morning I went to go look only to find even my garbage surf spot was crowded. I headed up the coast but it was mid-morning, a bit junky with mix swell, and surprisingly crowded. By mid-day Wednesday I was burnt out and the swell was filling in. I went to my garbage spot and snagged two small waves among the crowd.

Thursday, Thanksgiving, the peak of the swell and great weather. What I thought was crowded the days before now looked great in hindsight. People everywhere. I felt fine not trying to surf and instead took my son for a beach day adventure (which was also me scoping out a somewhat hidden beach during the swell). The weather was great and when we first arrived the beach was mostly empty. We walked the sand, checked a few tide-pools, watched the waves hit the rocks at the south end, and played in the little creek at the other end. I was watching the waves and thinking how I could take advantage. It didn't look great, but with the right approach waves could be ridden. As the day went along and the tide dropped, I swore I saw something cranking along the inside. One wave looked kinda good. Then later another one in the same spot. Then another. Then a grizzly guy with a shortboard showed up and it looked like he was watching that wave. I'm pretty sure he was, but my son and I had been in the sun for a few hours and I was getting hungry, so we headed back to the car. Just as we were driving away two more shortboards were heading down the path. Hmmmm....

On the way home I drove along west cliff. It wasn't very big because the angle had too much north, but the tide was low and the weather was great. It was crowded, but I didn't stop because I wasn't there to surf, just to see what's what. Middle Peak had overhead waves and a ton of people. The angle wasn't sending very much down the cliff, with almost nothing left at the statue.

Friday JB and I agreed to go to tres mi at the top of the tide. The tide was too high and the swell was dropping, so we figured that would keep the crowd to a minimum. We were right, and we were the only ones out. High tide is really bumpy at this spot, with reflecting waves from two directions. Still, there was enough wave energy to ride and I got a few long and fast rides but was only able to hold on through all the bumps and not able to make a turn without falling. It cleaned up and got better, but then more people started showing up. JB wasn't linking up with any good waves and was getting grumpy, so we left before we had to interact with anyone else.

That was it. The best waves I got were bumpy lumpy but uncrowded. I felt fine "missing it" because I didn't want to deal with all the people. I felt good about knowing what my other options are, and taking advantage of that knowledge. I also feel good about still finding new opportunities for waves, especially ones that are in-between waves I already surf. I think there are still places to have fun and avoid the crowds, it's just a matter of working harder to get there.

Even more canoe

 Lately the canoe has gotten my attention more than the waves. I went out for a quick mid-week paddle at sunset with my son. This weekend the waves were probably good, but instead I did housework, watched a movie, napped, and took the canoe out. Saturday was doing all the chores, and Sunday was the lake day. I started by double checking the access at one reservoir (closed) then another (closed) then another in a different county (reservations required at least a day ahead). Frustrated but not defeated, I expanded the distance I needed to drive and found that Lake Hennessy in Napa County was open. It's kind of Lake Berryessa's little sister, but still plenty big enough that I wouldn't want to try to paddle to the far end with my son. (Partially because he likes to play with his oar, dragging it in the water and occasionally paddling backwards.)

The weather was perfect being sunny with a very light variable breeze. Before I even got the canoe loaded with gear my son was already exploring the muddy beach. He continues to be more interested in wandering the shore than being in the canoe or fishing. We paddled across to a spot next to some bullrush and I set-up the poles for fishing while he wandered the shore. I got one hook in the water and looked for him again. He had climbed up past where I thought he could make it, and it made me nervous. I reeled in and went to go get him.

He had found some exposed roots and that's how he climbed the 2-ft "cliff" between the rocky shore and the forest above. When I got there I found that mixed with the roots were leafless poison oak stems. I explained to him what probably happened (he brushed them) and that it wasn't an emergency, but we would need to take a good bath when we got home. He let me carry him back to the fishing poles and we got two hooks in the water for the first time in awhile.

He isn't interested in sitting and watching a bobber, so he's always fiddling with the line, reel, rod holder. He sat down to eat and had a few bites of everything I brought. While he was eating I was fishing, casting bait and bobber upwind next to the bullrush and letting it drift downwind away from the vegetation. He got excited watching me cast and wanted to give it a try. I gave up on catching anything and instead we worked on his casting. I remember how hard it is to learn and was able to remain patient with him. He remained calm too, and tried for about 10 times before loosing interest and suggesting we go for a hike. We negotiated that he would walk along the shore and I would follow along in the canoe. This worked pretty well and he asked for a ride across to the other shore. A little exploring up into the trees, but not far and always on the lookout for more leafless poison oak.

The day continued with more of the same activities, punctuated by people landing fish near enough to us that we could see what they caught. I would point it out to him, but he wasn't interested and didn't watch them land the fish. I really don't know about this kid. I think he's different than me and doesn't like the water so much. The fishing is probably just that he's young, and also that he's never caught any fish. I think that if I want a full fishing experience, or just a full day of canoeing, I need to go solo, or find another partner.

Next week will be a staycation at my parents beach house. I won't bring the canoe and instead bring a bunch of different surfboards. Hopefully the weather is good because I can find waves as long as it's not stormy.

North of here

Work required me to spend a few days in far northern/coastal California. I drove, which gave me the opportunity to surf along the way. Because this was far from home, I'll be extra careful to not give enough details for someone to follow in my footsteps. On the way up I went to a good spot that is well known but still uncrowded. The swell was small and the tide was mid-high, but still the waves were good. I arrived at dawn and having never been there before, I didn't know enough about the set-up to know where to surf. I waited for someone else to paddle out first and catch a few waves. It looked fun, with occasional head+ sets. I followed his lead and got a few waves. I was on my Hess mini-gun, a board I haven't ridden in awhile. It took awhile for me to figure out the wave catching sweet spot both for the board and for the wave. The worst part is I was chasing the small ones (and missing them) two times when a set came it. I fought through the set and got to the outside, only to wait again for another set. Time was running out but I really wanted a set wave so I sat on the outside and let the little ones go by. When the outside set finally did arrive it was bigger than all the rest and I couldn't get to the takeoff spot in time. So, a third set caught me inside. I ended up back outside, but had to paddle to the inside to get a wave to go back to the beach on. While I didn't catch any great waves, I saw plenty. Like most spots north of Santa Cruz, this one isn't worth a dedicated trip, but if you're in the area, bring your stuff.

I continued my drive north seeing surfable waves if I had time and dedication to surf them. The work I had to do allowed me to peak at the waves and I continued to see waves that I could have fun with. However, the swell died while I was busy working and by the time I was done and could go surf, there wasn't enough energy to power my mini-gun. I saw waves that would be fun on a longboard, others on a fish/quad, or a mid-length. In summary, I brought the one worst board for surfing on the drive home. I did have the surf mat with me, but wasn't feeling like riding it.

What was keeping my imagination stoked was the idea of accessing rivermouths by canoe. There are many large rivers in northern California with sand faced lagoons at the mouth. Some have roads, others don't. Some can't even be seen from a road so they could be perfection with nobody knowing it. That is unlikely the case this late in the season when most rivermouths are closed, or the sand has been flattened by summer. The most promising time is after some big flows when the river pushes a point of sediment into the Pacific Ocean. I've picked a spot not to far where I can do a day trip and learn what I need to know to handle a canoe with surfboards. Now I need to wait for the rain to come!