I'm thankful that I have the freedom to surf those other waves. Santa Cruz has more than its share of really fun longboard spots. I hardly ever surf them because it is just so crowded. Instead, I venture north to out of the way places where people don’t congregate. Most of those other places have waves that are are less friendly to longboards and instead I ride a short board. Or sometimes a surf mat, or paipo, or on the rare occasion even do some bodysurfing.
Having the equipment and ability is a gift I appreciate.
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