Monday, December 21, 2020

It's been quite a year

We all have plenty of reasons to consider 2020 a year to remember. Recently I realized I have a really good reason: multiple new spots surfed!

I don't know what happened but something clicked for me at the end of last year, or maybe early this year. I had always checked other spots, but was also more focused on getting the best out of the more well known spots. Clearly those well known spots are well known because the wave quality is high and the effort to get there is low. But this year I tried more new spots than ever before. The reward has been lower quality waves with far, far fewer people competing for them. As a way to savor the memories, I'm going to attempt to list them from North to South. In an attempt to hide this from google searches, I'll use "gamer text."

Lagoon Beach, Po!nt @rena, Fl@t R0ck, @lligat0rs, the far inside of Greyh0und Ruck, R0ckie Po!nt, Funboards, G@ng!es left and right.

Not included in the list are the places that I didn't exactly surf for the first time ever, but surfed more times in this year that all the other times combined. Most of these spots have some degree of hiking adventure that goes along with surfing them, but a couple are just a short stroll from a parking spot. Some are a far drive from home, others closer to home than where I typically surf. Some have views of barnacle encrusted rocks that have to be avoided, others have boils indicating holes in the reef. Only one is all sand-bottomed, but another is mellow enough that there's no risk of bouncing off the reef.

Also, the year isn't over yet and there are many places I have been checking but haven't found in good enough conditions to surf. There's one more weekend before the end of the year and more swell in the forecast. Work will take me to the beach tomorrow and maybe I should lock in one more spot while I have the chance. But then again, none of these spots were surfed just for the novelty of saying I did it. Each one was the best opportunity that presented itself that day, so I kinda don't want to break that run. I guess I'll have to go check some spots and see what looks good tomorrow.

*Next day edit: I only kinda forced it, but I'm really glad I did. I always thought Ro$$' C0ve was a mushy boring wave, but today at least it pitched me with the lip a few times. It was hard to surf because it was really shifty. It was breaking kinda soft on the outside, rolling through the middle, then hitting hard inside. I tried to sit more inside and pick off just the right one, and take sets to the head. But when caught by a set it wasn't to hard to duck dive. I was on my small board and wished I had a bit more paddle power to slide in earlier. I actually think a full gun would be a reasonable choice out there.

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