2020, out with a whimper. 2021, in with a whimper

We've had a great run of big waves and good weather for surfing.

On the last weekend of the year I drove the coast of two counties looking for something to surf. The waves were to big at all the places I wanted to surf. I could have surfed at a few novelty spots that hide from the big waves, but instead kept heading down the road to find some big waves that weren't to big. The final stop found the wind picking up and ruining the waves. I drove back up the coast but didn't stop and went home without surfing.

The forecast for the first weekend of the year was pretty much the same, but this time I wasn't going to get skunked on the first day of the year! I brought my big wave board (7'5" Hess Noriega) out at dawn to the Lane. It was high tide, First Reef was showing but Middle Peak was breaking. Plenty of people were on Middle Peak before I even got wet, but nobody was at the Slot. Yeah, it was bumpy and smaller, but it was still overhead, and I'll take bumpy-solo over clean-crowded. So I stuck with it despite not being able to catch a wave, or make a drop. I missed so many waves I thought for sure I was going to catch. I fell on several and I only made it to my feet twice. The first time my balance forced me to fade towards the cliff and loose the open face. As soon as I gathered my balance I just drove hard under the white water. The second wave I was able to catch I freefell and my legs buckled, but I kept my balance. I stood up from the squat, then the wave disappeared and that was it. I waited and waited for just the right wave and when I caught it, I fell again. I took the paddle of shame back to the beach without ever really riding a wave.

JB was out with me and wasn't having the same difficulties. I thought about the board I was on and tried to remember of a session when it really worked for me. I couldn't think of anything. I remember the board worked okay at OB, but I don't surf there anymore. Although its more than 6" longer then my next smaller board, I feel like it is harder to catch waves on it. I have caught and ridden waves on this board, but I couldn't think of any time I was super excited with it. So, it's probably time to sell it. I never thought I would, but I also can't keep adding boards to my collection without making any space. Doing the accounting, I think if I sell a few I can cover the cost of a new Hess!

I think I want a +9-ft "FunGun." It would be for those spots that have plenty of channel to paddle without duck-diving. But only those that are relatively soft as big waves go, which to me means a wider board. So, time to clean wax, do a photo shoot, and post on Craigslist.