North of here

Work required me to spend a few days in far northern/coastal California. I drove, which gave me the opportunity to surf along the way. Because this was far from home, I'll be extra careful to not give enough details for someone to follow in my footsteps. On the way up I went to a good spot that is well known but still uncrowded. The swell was small and the tide was mid-high, but still the waves were good. I arrived at dawn and having never been there before, I didn't know enough about the set-up to know where to surf. I waited for someone else to paddle out first and catch a few waves. It looked fun, with occasional head+ sets. I followed his lead and got a few waves. I was on my Hess mini-gun, a board I haven't ridden in awhile. It took awhile for me to figure out the wave catching sweet spot both for the board and for the wave. The worst part is I was chasing the small ones (and missing them) two times when a set came it. I fought through the set and got to the outside, only to wait again for another set. Time was running out but I really wanted a set wave so I sat on the outside and let the little ones go by. When the outside set finally did arrive it was bigger than all the rest and I couldn't get to the takeoff spot in time. So, a third set caught me inside. I ended up back outside, but had to paddle to the inside to get a wave to go back to the beach on. While I didn't catch any great waves, I saw plenty. Like most spots north of Santa Cruz, this one isn't worth a dedicated trip, but if you're in the area, bring your stuff.

I continued my drive north seeing surfable waves if I had time and dedication to surf them. The work I had to do allowed me to peak at the waves and I continued to see waves that I could have fun with. However, the swell died while I was busy working and by the time I was done and could go surf, there wasn't enough energy to power my mini-gun. I saw waves that would be fun on a longboard, others on a fish/quad, or a mid-length. In summary, I brought the one worst board for surfing on the drive home. I did have the surf mat with me, but wasn't feeling like riding it.

What was keeping my imagination stoked was the idea of accessing rivermouths by canoe. There are many large rivers in northern California with sand faced lagoons at the mouth. Some have roads, others don't. Some can't even be seen from a road so they could be perfection with nobody knowing it. That is unlikely the case this late in the season when most rivermouths are closed, or the sand has been flattened by summer. The most promising time is after some big flows when the river pushes a point of sediment into the Pacific Ocean. I've picked a spot not to far where I can do a day trip and learn what I need to know to handle a canoe with surfboards. Now I need to wait for the rain to come!