... but that's okay

I'm still a kook, but that's okay. I got out to surf in marginal conditions. It actually wasn't that bad, just not that good either. The weather was great and there were waves to ride and I felt good. The downside is that I kept stumbling on my take-off. Even once on my feet, there wasn't anything memorable about the waves because they would loose power and never got it back. It was good enough to keep paddling back out and keep chasing waves, so I got good exercise which is something I can always use more of.

On a related note, I used to like watching the pro women surfers because their surfing ability was closer to my own. I've never been as good as the best women surfers in Santa Cruz, let alone the pros around the world, but I was good enough to understand what I saw them doing. As the years have progressed, women surfers are getting better and better. The big wave surfers are way out of my league, and now this: Surf comes along and it's over for me. This is the first time Lakey has surfed this wave. I can no longer identify with what I see women surfers doing. It's just beyond me. But that's okay.