Sunday double

After the punishment of Saturday I slept in and didn't get to the beach until 9am on Sunday. I caught up with JZ and convinced him to stick to the north end of the beach where the waves were smaller. It was head high or less and pitchy on some of them. Good waves, weather still holding, all pieces in place. I caught a peak with a lump of section on the shoulder and pulled in. I had an exit but the lip caught the edge of my board and I got pulled off balance and whaboom, down to the sand I went. Still, almost. Many other waves but that's the one I remember.

I came in and watched the 9ers loose a really close one to the vikings. Favre, I hate that Joe Montana wannabe. After the game JZ started working on me for a second session. The weather was still good, my body had no specific injury and the candy I ate gave me some confidence/sugar rush. I agreed to go mid-beach with him.

I made it out with only two powerful waves hitting me. Of course the first one impacted about 2' in front of me and I bailed the board to avoid injury (both to me and the board.) The second was setting up just the same so I just stayed in water until it passed. After, I made it out to see the waves were a bit better than Saturday morning when I was in nearly the same spot.

There were some big barrels coming through but I stayed away from that peak for the most part. I got caught inside and washed down to where the waves were just pounding on the bar. I turned around and rode whitewater to the beach, screaming obscenities at the ocean. I walked back up to the beach feeling sorry for myself and realized that JZ had the car keys. I could either wait on the beach or try to make it back out and wait in the lineup. I found the rip and a break in the waves and made it back out. I'm glad I did because I caught a few that were the best waves of my weekend. One vertical drop where I released then landed and ended up on a good spot on the board to make the bottom and run the wall. I would have like to have stalled a bit and maybe get in the barrel but that just doesn't happen in those late drop situations. I also got into a left early and hung at the bottom to lose speed and try to get into the pocket. The barrel didn't really open up and I caught the lip on my hip, but I still felt good about putting myself into the right place on the wave.

So that was three real sessions in two days and I'm not dead, I don't have any injuries and my arms didn't fall off. I don't think I've done that in years.