Saturday, September 12, 2009

Taste of Fall

OB was foggy with 6 @ 17 and a 4 foot tide. I surfed VFWs in the fog of the morning. The waves were rolling over the middle bar and hitting the inner bar pretty hard, although it didn't look like if from the beach. I got a few good ones, and blew a few take-offs when the wave hit the bar harder than expected and my world fell out from beneath me. Saw one guy getting into one too close to the bar and as he stood up he was muttering "Come on baby, come on." Which I thought was a perfect sentiment. (He didn't make the drop, by the way.)

I didn't stay out too long because a tropical system had brought lightning with it and I was getting a bit spooked about lightning hitting the ocean.

One cool thing, I was first out, except for a group of sea lions who were bodysurfing the bigger waves. They left as more people came out, but it was cool to see.

The replacement Haut was too fast to handle again. It made one kickout a flyaway when I wasn't planning it, but also made me outrun waves or simply loose control from the speed. I hope I learn to cope with it.

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