Monday, June 21, 2021

Making it work

I didn't get to surf last weekend, and won't get to surf next weekend, so I really had to make this weekend count. I started with the normal long drive down to Scott. The south wind made it look bad, and the swell was too small to allow us to go find somewhere in town to hide from the wind. I figured our best option was to go north of the pigeon lighthouse. As we convoyed north there were some tempting waves out the window. But every time we stopped, we didn't see another wave do the same thing. JB showed me where to check for a spot I've never looked at before, but it wasn't working. We ended up at the cove and it was surfable with only one person out. I knew if we kept looking, chances were good we wouldn't surf at all. JB agreed that this was our best bet and we went for it.

To make things more interesting, we rode JB's wavestorm and Vernor mini-simmons. The 8-ft foamy was pretty fun because it allowed me to catch more waves and catch them earlier, which allowed me to sit deeper over the reef. Mid-session we swapped boards and although I could still catch waves, I couldn't catch as many, and when I did I struggled to deal with the difficult wave on the different board. Still, I got exercise.

My knee is still not right and I'm raising the issue with my doctor.

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