Tuesday, June 1, 2021

I'm Back!

I had an odd weekend. The family spent three days in Santa Cruz, and there were some waves to surf, but I was hesitant. With my knee being weird, and JB not available, I opted to avoid the hidden spots on the north coast where an injury would have to be handled alone. Looking around in town the south was hitting some spots, but plenty of people were taking advantage of the waves. Being gimpy and spoiled by empty waves, I didn't surf on either Saturday or Sunday. By Sunday night I was regretting my caution and knew I needed to surf, good or bad or crowded. I opted to go dawn to Sewers.

It wasn't exactly dawn, and three guys were already there by the time I paddled out. I got a wave or two and then more guys came out. It wasn't good enough for more than a few people, so I paddled in. I walked down to Rockview but didn't see much surfable. I looked at Little W&S and it wasn't really working, but there was a wave now and again. I figured the off-tide was a good time to give it a try. It's challenging at high tide because the wave wants to miss the best part of the reef, and because the backwash is pretty substantial. I made the most of it and felt like I could handle the late drops. I didn't make them all, but my knee wasn't complaining. I took a weird fall and hurt my scrotum. I thought I had torn it, and gently paddled to the beach. By the time I made it to the sand I was much less worried, but still wanted to go home and check the situation visually. Turns out it was red and angry, but nothing permanent. 

After surfing I rode the long skateboard about a mile down to meet the family at the coffee shop. My knee handled it fine. In fact the arch of my foot complained before my knee weakened.

So I feel really good about my knee coming back into service. It was weighing heavy on me because I thought that was it, my knee was just going to be that way. I thought I had suddenly gotten to old to surf the waves I wanted to. Hopefully I can keep that feeling close at hand and use it to motivate me to stay strong and in shape.

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