Sunday, May 3, 2020

Wounded Knee

Back to 4-mile with the same board/same fins. Mid-tide and small-ish NW swell. The crowd was less agro, but still plenty numerous. I stuck to the point to spread out the crowd and was getting my share. The waves weren't notable, but I was getting a better feel for the tree-hugger on soft waves, and walking around after most waves. Until I took off too deep, got bucked when trying to stand and banged the outside of my knee hard. After escaping the whitewater I stood up and realized my knee was hurt enough that trying to push a hard bottom turn was too painful. I rode the wave in and ended the session after only an hour.
Having to end my surf while conditions were still good, I took the opportunity to check a few other spots. I saw other spots that were good and crowded, and at least one spot that was better than 4-mile and much less crowded. I wished I had surfed there instead. Looking to the next session, I'm stuck with this decision to make; dawn patrol at the tried and true 4-mile to get the most waves before the crowd, OR, do I explore to try to score one of those other spots?
Which brings me to the concept of FOMO (fear of missing out). I'm not as susceptible to FOMO because I've had it work against me when searching for waves. The idea that it might be better at the other spot can lead to a repeated pattern of driving around to look and one place, then another, and another, back to the first place, wash rinse repeat. So I've gotten into the habit of the night before surfing, planning out where to surf and then sticking to the plan. Yesterday was a stark reminder that that approach prevents me from experiencing other waves that I wouldn't expect to be good.

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