A year ago this time thinking about waves meant thinking about meaty thundering beasts. I wanted to feel the power of the ocean and slip through the fingers of the beast. Now my mind-surfs are fewer, and have changed tone. I think about the feeling of down the line speed on a round bottomed board. I think about Liddell waves with no wetsuit needed and only friends out surfing. It's a dream, I don't even know where to find that, but that's what I'm dreaming of when I dream.
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