Monday, July 8, 2013

Back from nowhere

The first surf after the previous blog post should have been worth posting on. It was a good sized south swell and a pre-dawn negative low tide. I coordinated with two friends to meet at Mitchel's and arrived myself before dawn. In the dark I could see waves, but wasn't getting stoked. As the pre-dawn light showed more detail I could see the waves were good, but wasn't getting stoked. I paddled out among the first few and got a decent wave but wasn't getting stoked. The pattern continued throughout the day. The weather stayed nice with minimal wind but I didn't surf again, even when a third friend came into town to surf. "Where's it good?" he asked as he was on his way down. "Everywhere," I told him, but still I shuffled around the cliffs not taking advantage.
I carried that same mood with me for a few more surf sessions. Some of which have been crappy, no doubt, but a few have been good enough that I should have a better attitude. I haven't been feeling depressed, just flat.
The most stoked I've felt since that day was when I stripped wax and shined up a few of my boards. It felt good, even though I found repairs that need to be made. I went out and bought supplies but haven't done the repairs.
Lately I've been thinking about a board something like a mini-simmons, although I'm not sure how it would be different than the GeeBee I already have. But the thoughts of riding it are ruined when I think of the cold, difficult conditions I have available. I actually dream of the warm, small, crappy surf of Long Island where I could swim in trunks and crash on the sand if any waves happened to get bigger than 1' tall.
Even with this mood I've been keeping in decent shape. I haven't been taking care of upper body as much as I should but I haven't been lazy either. Some bike riding, some hiking, some yard work has kept the blood flowing. I need to get push-ups and other arm stuff back into the mix before Fall comes. I also need to visit some place with warm ocean good-times.

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