Monday, August 31, 2009

Sunday dawn

I surfed 4 mile on Sunday around dawn. I walked down the path in foggy first light and was still the second one in the water. The tide was high and the waves were a bit warbly as expected, but the 6' wind swell was making waves on the inside. Some overhead sets with most in the 3-4' range. I caught many short peaks (to short to call it a wall) and rode too many dribbling shoulders all the way inside. I can't complain though, cause it's the only place I could think to surf given the all day high tide and the less than stellar swell, and my aching arms from pounding piezometers all day Thursday. It was better than many days from earlier this summer.

The fog took it's time to clear but there were 20 something guys in the water by the time I left after only 1 hour in the water.

The Haut worked well as I found myself catching waves early, late, or whatever. Only one biff when I kept with a wave I knew was breaking out from under me on the takeoff. No problem, 4-mile is mostly soft so no worries to let myself go over the falls.

Did see the older kneeboarder that I've surfed some north coast spots with. He got at least two complete cover-ups, small as they may be. I know where to get that at 4-mile, and mostly which waves to catch, I just don't know how to make it work for me.

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