Monday, August 16, 2021

Utilize the options

 The forecast for the past weekend was back to the great conditions we've had most of the summer. Calm morning winds, a small north wind swell, and a medium-small south swell. JB and I knew what we had to do, back to the usual!The sand at the rock was too low for us to climb over, so we had to paddle around. I brought both my TH and my mat&fins, so paddling around meant looping my leash through the swimfin straps, and putting the unrolled mat between myself and the board. It worked as well as could be expected with the fins acting like small anchors and the mat trying it's best to get away at every duck-dive. In my awkwardness I barely made it around the rock before waves started washing me back to shore. No problem, but it left JB paddling over to R's on his own. I walked up to R's and looked at G's but couldn't make much out through the fog. JB hung at R's, and I saw a wave that had potential, so I ditched the mat gear above the high tide line and paddled out. After 20-min of waiting for a good wave to come in, we each caught a set wave. Neither was any good, so we went in to walk down to G's.

I decided to start on the mat. I sat deeper over the reef and JB took up his usual spot catching the bigger ones that swing wide and roll into the cove. I managed a few steep drops but wasn't getting any connections, so all my waves were short. So short that I kept ending up over the reef as other waves came behind the ones I caught. After an hour or so of matting, my knee started to complain. The waves were still good with the dropping tide so I went to the beach and switched to the TH.

Back in the line-up I had to give myself a moment to adjust to the board. I was lower on the reef and ended up watching a few of JB's best rides of the day. I was flopping around at first, but ended up managing a few rides before my energy faded and I went in. On the walk back to the car JB and I talked about the upcoming "Tahiti" swell and trying to surf some of it Thursday. We both have kids to drop at school, so it would be a mid-morning speed session with JB rushing home after to pick-up kids after the school half-day.

Then on Sunday JZ texted and asked about surfing down where we've been scoring all summer. Yeah? JZ willing to drive? I can't pass up this opportunity, so today one of the first things I did at work was request Thursday off. It actually looks like it will get better later in the day, so if JB doesn't manage to get the morning off, JZ and I can still score some good waves around mid-day. If the wind cooperates I could get two sessions and really wear myself out!

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