Monday, August 30, 2021

Hawaiian Paipo Designs

Went out to R Cove on the HPD this weekend. Forecast showed a small south, moderate NNW wind swell, and calm winds. Add in a mid-tide, and JB and I opted for R Cove. I arrived around first light and hiked up to the overlook. It didn't look exciting, but there were waves. Another guy came to take a look and left before JB met me on the cliff. JB said he saw the guy driving away and was worried it wasn't worth surfing. But, all things considered, this seemed to be the best chance for getting a few waves. My only decision was what to ride.
In an effort to strengthen my legs I've decided to ride my "swim fins" wave vehicles. I've been out a few times on my 4GF surfmat and had fun. I've been bringing my Blade too, and this time I brought the HPD. The mat works in more longboard type waves, and the blade more like a bodyboard. The HPD is in between and a challenge to get used to. It handles the late drops if I can get my body off-center and onto the inside rail. Then if the wave flattens out I can get the whole width of the paipo into the water and make it through some flats as long as it still has a little push. Watching the waves come into the cove it looked like a freefall drop into the wave and on to a flat shoulder. Occasionally one would hit just right and reel over the reef reforming and creating steps over the shallow spots. This seemed like the perfect time for the HPD.
It turned out I was right. After dealing with the long paddle out and adjusting to the small-wave take-off zone, I was able to get a few fun waves. I was reminded of how great it feels to engage the rail at the bottom of a steep drop. I got two waves that reeled across the reef and had a long paddle back out. That, mixed with plenty of short drop and die kind of waves, and I quickly got all the exercise I could stand. JB was on the wavestorm and was also catching wave after wave, making the most of the conditions. Although we saw several people come to the overlook, nobody else came out to the waves.
Afterwards I tried the cafe at the bar and was pleased by the good food and beautiful weather.
It was another great day of surfing, and this was just another reason I appreciate having options when I surf.

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