I went back to a cove that had handed it to me a few weeks back. I had first gone out expecting it to be kinda soft rolling shoulders, and seeing the best fun could be had racing the short wall at the take-off. I was on my 6'0" thinking I was going to rip the place up. (Or my version of that.) What happened last time was that I experienced first hand that the bowl/wall was more than I was ready for!
This weekend it was smaller, but I went for the same sized waves in the same spot. The biggest difference were fewer outside sets that I had to dodge to hold my spot. I was on the same board (repeated that mistake) but this time I was more ready for what I was facing. I also had JB with me, which makes finding the take-off zone after a ride so much easier. I was able to negotiate some drops and make it across some walls. The key for me was finding a wave that broke in the deeper lead-up to the shelf where the wall is. If I could get in just a moment early, I could get my feet under me for the wall.
However, I repeatedly landed with my feet so committed on the inside rail that once I cleared the wall I couldn't do anything except fall. The wall is intense but short, and I need to do a big cutback to stay with the wave. I couldn't. Like, maybe twice I had enough control for a soft cutback that wasn't enough to stay with the wave. Many times I flopped one way or another trying to make a turn. One time I even grabbed the rail to make it across the wall and as soon as I let go of the rail I flopped over. Even considering all this, I was improving over my first day because I was at least riding waves!
So my plan is to keep trying. Next time I should really be on my 6'8" which both lets me take off earlier, and has a narrower tail which I expect to help deal with the situation. If not, I have a few more boards to try out.
Meanwhile, JB was doing alright out there. I happily gave him the 2-waves of the day award. He was also having trouble with the take-off because of the cross waves that seem to be persistent out there. There must be plenty of other reefs shallow enough to bend the swell, and it seems to all combine in the bowl we were trying to ride. It certainly requires paying attention when paddling for a wave and trying to be ready for a bump/step/chop from whichever direction it is coming that time. The flip side is that occasionally an A-frame hits the bowl and those are easier to ride if they let me in early.
Afterwards I went to a surf shop where I was planning to meet a guy to sell a board. He hadn't been responding to my emails, so I figured I'd hang around until I got bored. Luckily JZ came by to say Hi. We haven't seen each other in person since lockdown last March, and we've both been going through our personal troubles. We caught up as well as we could in the small amount of free time he had. Luckily, the guy to buy my board finally called and I said goodbye to JZ. I showed this guy the board and although he has appreciation for the all-wood Hess boards, mine didn't seem right for him. I had my 6'0" in the car and he really liked the look of it. I let him check it out but made it clear it was not for sale.
So, decent weekend all things considered!
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