Monday, June 8, 2020

The sand

We tried to recreate last weekend's success at Funboards, but it didn't work. The swell was different with a smaller north in the mix. The tide was very low at dawn instead of mid-tide and dropping. Worst of all, there was some wind on it even at dawn. Funboards didn't look right. Admittedly we didn't fully check it out. We didn't walk down to get a better look because instead we opted for the sandbar plainly visible from the road. Last weekend it was more hollow and I felt I couldn't handle it on my funboard and talked JB out of it. This weekend though, it was just enough softer to be worth a try. As it turned out the wave would stand up and give a chance to paddle in early and start gaining speed before it tried to close out. Picking the right wave resulted in a speed run to the beach, and I got several of those. It was just JB and I, and I felt free to catch all the waves I could, try turns and other stuff without the worry of hitting another surfer. The waves weren't all that great, but we made the most of it.
JB loaned me a 4.5" center fin and I loaded 4.5" side fins into the TH. I wasn't sure where to put the center fin in relation to the sides, but I got it in the general vicinity. It wasn't a good session to test fins because all I could do with the wave was pump a little down the line in a speed run. I tried going right a few times but for all but one wave it quickly and violently shut down. So, as for my learning about fins, it was an inconclusive day. As for getting exercise, having fun with a friend, fresh air and nature, it was a great day!

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