Monday, June 15, 2020

Down at the reef

Back to the same stretch I've been enjoying recently. I was out of coordination with JB because I had convinced my family to come for a beach day. Going at the "family pace" meant leaving the house around the time I'd normally be already in the lineup. When I arrived I saw someone down at the reef and thought it was JB, so headed there myself. Before I paddled out that person had paddled in and was heading up the cliff, so I surfed it solo. It was fun enough. Not really doing its thing but it was doing something. The larger waves hit the reef correctly while the smaller ones were surprisingly ridable even though hitting the inside pounder reef. I only caught a few with much shoulder to do more than the one cutback, and those few made it all the more worthwhile.
I was out on the TH with the side fins removed and the Velzy V-fin pushed forward in the box. It felt really good. It bottom turned and cut back in a way similar to a multi-fin board, like maybe a tri-fin. It felt better than the time I had it on very small waves on the longboard, but that's probably because I had some wave face to work with. 

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