Monday, August 26, 2019

Hoping for small waves

I've had a few days this summer surfing solo anywhere between an hour to a full session. I've been riding my yellow longboard at 4-mile on days when it was very small. It's been great! This last Saturday morning the cdip buoy reported the swell as slightly larger (1/2 foot bigger) than on the other days when the crowd was minimal. This time, the crowd was on it. I got far fewer waves and didn't have as much opportunity to snag the best ones. I did get a few good rides, so it wasn't a bad day, just... So I'm hoping it's small next weekend, and the crowd is small to.

The other thing, I took out my GeeBee on Saturday. I was surprised by the lack of response when I pushed on a bottom turn to get speed. I'm not sure if I was expecting the acceleration because the yellow longboard does, or because I was on a shortboard (the GB is 6'2"). Whatever the reason, it wasn't there and I had to adjust. One adjustment was to engage more rail on the turns, the other was to just not expect as much drive. I've already been thinking about fins, and so my mind went to the fin on the GB and how it may be contributing.

I've always used what the GB came with, what looks like a TA L-Flex at about 8 or 9". The Fineline website recommends running a L-Flex 9B in Volan, or a Greenough 4a 9", both of which have similar shape but wider base than the fin that I'm riding in there now. So, my first move should be to poach the 4a out of the yellow longboard and try it in the GB. (Side-note, PG recommends adding 14 layers of 6oz to the 4a to get the proper fin thickness. Maybe someday I'll find the bravery to give that a try.) But the yellow board isn't the only source of other fins available to me. I raided my dad's dusty box of fins and struck gold! Here's the list of what I borrowed: Velzy V-fin, 10" cutaway, 8-9" Johnny Rice "hatchet", Horan Star Fin, and Cooper plastic flex fin. I've tried the Cooper flex in the GB and it stalls on hard turns. I've tried the hatchet in a transition era single fin min-gun and don't have any memories of how well it worked, good or bad. So, if I also try these fins on the longboard, I have 10-fin combinations to play with! Surfing only once a week, that will take me a long time. And, I might run out of small waves before I finish. So, that's another reason to hope the waves stay small for a little longer.

9/3/19 Edit:
After a surf on the longboard in small waves, I've decided my problem on the GB described above was due to my mind not being in the right place. I was trying to pump the GB like a hard railed quad fish, which isn't the proper approach. The adjustment I made (engaging more rail in the bottom turn) was a step in in the right direction. Next weekend is forecast to be more of the same, so I might choose to try the GB with one of the other fins to see if I can find more "small wave drive" with a longer and/or wider based fin. The new 10" Greg Liddle flex fin in Volan will be my first try. It has a similarly narrow base but an extra few inches of length to the L-Flex I've been using for years.

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