Monday, December 31, 2018

Last Post of 2018

I have some unfinished posts that have been stuck in "Draft" phase. They both discuss dead ends on the search for satisfaction, happiness, etc. I think the last day of the year is a good time to purge those drafts and get on with life in the new year. So here goes:

One revolves around hazy memories of living near the beach, going to school, and surfing. The memory of a time in my life that seems better than now. I was trying to compare the simplicity of that time to the complication of now. But it comes off as self-pity, which I don't think is how I truly feel. In reality I have it pretty good! When I'm out surfing I feel that I'm lucky to have ridden so many waves in my life, and I'm still riding more! Sure, it would be great to have all that free time again, but I was also lonely and board much of the time.

The other is about the search for the "magic board" and how that ideal doesn't really exist. I try to describe that a good session is a complicated mix of board, waves, crowd, wind, tide, mood, etc. But I get lost in trying to simplify everything and that post is an un-publishable mess.

And on the way to the beach this weekend, another idea for a post started forming, but again doesn't feel suitable to publish. The idea is that I have all these different ways to ride waves, (a whole quiver in fact!) and I have a car large enough to bring several boards with me, but for some reason I typically only bring one or two options. Why? Laziness? Focus? I couldn't figure it out, so I don't have a complete thought to share.

Okay, now looking forward to 2019. I have some goals:
1) Bodysurf more.
A full body workout, fun in most any conditions, minimal gear!

2) SUP adventure.
I proved to myself that I can paddle a few miles, ride waves, and paddle home. I've scoped out more places to do this. This year I want to get at least two more in the books.

3) Surf more.
My responsibilities have shifted allowing more surfing. I need to build momentum and make sure it happens more often.

4) Go on a surf trip.
It doesn't need to be some place remote and tropical. In fact, considering my situation as a whole, a good old fashioned drive down the coast mid-late winter might be my best bet.

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