I woke up feeling something I haven't in awhile, early morning need-to-go-to-the-beach stoke. It was 4:30am, so I quietly slipped out of bed, grabbed what felt like pants and a shirt, and went downstairs. The internet told me it might be good at OB, but it also might not. Wind is fickle, and all too important at OB. I opted instead for a sheltered spot where the wind would not be an issue. BO-BO's!
Unfortunately being protected from the wind also means being protected from most swells, and nearly all the wind swell. I arrived in the first light of dawn and didn't even look before suiting up and walking down to the water. The wave size was disappointing, but being the first on the water allowed me to take advantage of whatever the ocean offered. I ended up crossing the channel and surfing the far-side to myself for an hour. I caught twice as many waves in that one session than my prior two combined. I'm getting a better feel for the V-pin. Being solo I felt free to force the board past it's limits, which is the only way to find the limits. The waves were soft, and not really right for the board, but I got enough to make myself happy. The session reinforced my belief that I need to ride a longboard to rekindle the stoke. It would be great to get a board more like a pig, but no longer than 9'8", which is the longest I can lock securely inside my car.
The two boards I dropped off on consignment are still awaiting new owners. I figure eventually the shop will call and tell me to lower the price. And maybe I will, but I'm patient.
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