Stop It

I thought I'd reached a comfortable place with the surfboards I had. I've lost interest in Bonzers, realized that my Haut2 is a great board for me in most conditions, but I still have a few options to mix it up when I feel like it. Someh
how I converted that feeling into wanting a Hess version of the Haut2, "so I would have it always." At least that's the logic in my head. The thing is, I already have one I ride, and a cracked one in the rafters to model future ones after. When I realized I was chasing boards again I just said, "Stop IT!"
Now I realize the name I chose for this blog is "Surf Quiver," and now I'm talking about not expanding or rotating my quiver, but geeze, don't I already have enough? The logical answer is yes, the emotional answer is no, I want to keep playing. So here's the compromise I'm at with myself now.
1) If I find a used, < $1,000 Hess that is close in size/shape to the Haut2 I'll take it. The justification is that a new one is $1,400 or more so if I can score the right used one before I bust the Haut2 I will jump, otherwise I'll be getting a custom one sometime down the road.
2) Kneeboard. I still enjoy the kneeboard experience when I know the waves will be super hollow. I haven't ridden it in awhile, so I can't justify getting a new one until I bust the old one. And I mean 2 pieces or something similar that requires major repair. Until then I'll do crap patches and ride it once in awhile.
3) I already have a bunch of boards and lately I've only ridden two. I should ride the Hess I do have, come summer I'll ride the GeeBee, and I have the flex-spoon if I get it tuned and get into shape. Then there's the body surf and mat surf option that I haven't done recently.

Speaking of getting into shape, the wife and I joined a rock gym last night. I got kinda excited because I found a bouldering route I thought I could do but couldn't quite. I get bored "working out" but if I have a game or something to make it interesting I can rather easily get into shape. If my grip wasn't so weak today from 45min bouldering yesterday I'd go again tonight (I still might anyway) and hopefully this will be my non-surf exercise that will keep me from going soft between Saturday surfs.

Lincoln Lefts

Three Sundays ago I headed out to the beach after hearing that the north end was < 8'. When I got there I saw it was more like +8' but there was a nice peak in front of VFWs and a rip 100 yards north that looked good. I had brought the Buttons and I jumped in the rip. I got out without much trouble, but then couldn't escape the rip in the direction of the peak I wanted. I paddled for 30min and made no progress, so I decided to paddle in while I still had strength. I paddled hard and got just inside the sandbar when a set came and cleaned up the rip. I took a few trips to the bottom on the first wave, and a few more trips on the next few waves. Nothing enough to hurt, but a bang on the sand is never fun. The following weekend looked much the same and I sat it out. But this last Saturday...
I got to the beach after breakfast, which was around 10am. JZ was amped to hit it because it was about head high and sunny with offshores. We went to Lincoln lefts where the outer bar was hitting, but the paddle around the north side of the peak was easy. I've been fighting a cold so it took me awhile to make it out since I didn't have much sprint. I did make it out, but was forced to take it easy and wait for waves, rather than chase around with JZ like I normaly do. I moved around only as much as I needed to to spread the minor crowd and stay in the general area of the shifty lefts. It turned out to work in my favor as several waves came to me. The best of the lefts were 6-8' walls that were holding up for longer rides. I even got a pigdog barrel that was witnessed (partially) by JZ. It felt good to get some waves without much punishment.
After an hour a rip replaced the peak I was at and JZ and I started paddling around trying to find what was working next. After I got a wave I saw his board floating on the inside. I spent what strength I had sprinting to it and got to it just as a bigger wave was about to send it another 20 yards in. I ditched my board to hang at the end of the leash while I held position on JZs board, ducking waves and trying to find the swimming head of my friend. By the time he got to me I realized I had cramped up my calf during the effort and I called it a day.

All in all a good day. I skipped it on Sunday even though it was probably much the same. Green mucus in the morning and plans for the evening lead me to believe sleeping most of the day would be a good idea.