The first sentence of 23breaths from today is a perfect way to start,
"I had ventured out with low if any expectations at all"
This is precisely opposite of how I started my Sunday session. I had been eyeing the forecast all week, planning and dreaming of the awesome waves I would ride. I have this great board I bought and I can't wait to get it going and relive all the best rides of my life! I just know this board is the secret to happiness. I just know that this Sunday that spot will be just like that one time I got it really good with a small crowd and perfect conditions. I just knew it.
The waves were good. The board is good. However, there were plenty of surfers there. Only the main bar was working, and if the wave didn't hit it then it rolled through a deep spot before closing out in the shallows. I couldn't find a wave to myself, and the waves weren't right to share. I finally earned one by waiting in the lineup and letting others take waves. It was mine and I was going for it. But I missed it by standing up too soon and letting the wind get under the nose and hesitating thinking someone was deeper than me. And that was it.
My arms had already given me what they could. The tide was dropping fast making the waves un-makeable. I got caught over the sandbar for what turned out to be the longest set of the day, which culminated in taking the board to the side of the head.
I was heartbroken. More so than I should have been. This wasn't what Sunday was supposed to be like. I never got a good one. (I only rode 3 waves.) What happened?
Overheated expectations. I got back to my car and ate the lunch I brought. I struggled out of my wetsuit and sat in the car seat to stare blankly out the window and reflect on what had happened.
It was a beautiful day. Although crowded, people were friendly enough. I am out of shape. I probably arrived too late to the beach. I wasn't enjoying what the day was because I was focused on the day I had imagined, and how the day wasn't aligned with that image. Once I thought it through, once I let it sink in, then I let it go. I walked down to the beach once more to watch some waves. I sat in my car and read the book I just bought, enjoying the beach air and sunshine. I washed away my disappointment with fresh air blowing through the window as I enjoyed the drive home through the forest.
Pranaglider went to the beach with low expectations and was happy with what he found. I went to the beach with high expectations and was disappointed with what I found. Who did it better?
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