Bodysurfing

The wind was light enough this Saturday morning for Ocean Beach to be surf-able. From where I was standing, the waves were not playing along. It was rather crowded considering the majority of the waves were closing out. It was around head high, and the south swell was delivering waves with energy, if not shape. I knew I needed exercise, but really didn't like the prospect of fighting through closeouts to ride closeouts. But hey, bodysurfing into hollow closeouts would work.
I suited up and walked down the hill to the beach. I gave myself a cramp at the waters edge pulling my fins on, but it was up in my quad and loosened up once I began swimming. Because I was bodysurfing I was able to slip through the waves and into the lineup with minimal effort. It did take some work to fight the current and get up the beach to where the waves were hitting harder, but all the boards were also fighting the current.
I got plenty of hollow rides into closeouts. No long rides, no exits from the barrel. I got a few good tumbles and held down a bit to remind myself that winter is coming. I was the only one in position for one of the set waves and it looked like it would hold open for me to get a ride. I find that when bodysurfing I want to get into the larger waves early. I feel like its more important (and more difficult at times) to get below the lip and avoid going over the falls. My effort to get into the wave early caused my calf to cramp. I dropped in with the cramp and the wave closed out anyway, which was okay because my foot was flexing trying to relieve the pain of the calf cramp. This turns the swim fin into a drag and usually ends the wave.
So now I'm in the impact zone with a foot in the 90 deg. position and more waves on the way. I let the ocean push me towards the beach and rubbed on my calf. It released and I started swimming back out and it cramped up again. More floating and rubbing and stretching muscles before getting back to the lineup. I caught a few more waves using my other leg (not cramped one) as the main power source. Well that lead to a cramp in that calf, and the end of my session.
I almost always am happy after a bodysurfing session. The only times I'm not are when I see good waves go un-ridden that I could have enjoyed on a board. The rest of the time the full body work-out feels good. Besides the inevitable calf cramps, no muscle gets over-worked. Arms, legs, back, core, they all are used and if one gets tired I can use other muscles or just float. The ocean is also good at giving a massage of sorts. I am able to relax and let the waves tumble my body, and that always feels good.

And then I went by a surfshop and dropped off two boards for consignment. It hurts me when I sell a board. I'd prefer to keep every board I've ever bought because they all have something. Each one is unique and has a feel that the others don't. One of the boards was just a bit too short. It was a pin-tail single fin at 6'6" and I couldn't quite get into waves like I need to on a board like that. Another 6-12" and I would really enjoy it, but instead it just sat in the shed. The other one I couldn't figure out why it didn't do what it should. It is of the "Liddell" style, wide, flat, knife rails. For some reason it never worked under my feet, and with the new V-pin in my quiver, I really didn't see myself riding this one. So they're both out there waiting for someone. Someone maybe a bit younger, smaller of waist, or with the skill to make them work.

The first sentence of 23breaths from today is a perfect way to start,
"I had ventured out with low if any expectations at all"
This is precisely opposite of how I started my Sunday session. I had been eyeing the forecast all week, planning and dreaming of the awesome waves I would ride. I have this great board I bought and I can't wait to get it going and relive all the best rides of my life! I just know this board is the secret to happiness. I just know that this Sunday that spot will be just like that one time I got it really good with a small crowd and perfect conditions. I just knew it.
The waves were good. The board is good. However, there were plenty of surfers there. Only the main bar was working, and if the wave didn't hit it then it rolled through a deep spot before closing out in the shallows. I couldn't find a wave to myself, and the waves weren't right to share. I finally earned one by waiting in the lineup and letting others take waves. It was mine and I was going for it. But I missed it by standing up too soon and letting the wind get under the nose and hesitating thinking someone was deeper than me. And that was it.
My arms had already given me what they could. The tide was dropping fast making the waves un-makeable. I got caught over the sandbar for what turned out to be the longest set of the day, which culminated in taking the board to the side of the head.
I was heartbroken. More so than I should have been. This wasn't what Sunday was supposed to be like. I never got a good one. (I only rode 3 waves.) What happened?
Overheated expectations. I got back to my car and ate the lunch I brought. I struggled out of my wetsuit and sat in the car seat to stare blankly out the window and reflect on what had happened.
It was a beautiful day. Although crowded, people were friendly enough. I am out of shape. I probably arrived too late to the beach. I wasn't enjoying what the day was because I was focused on the day I had imagined, and how the day wasn't aligned with that image. Once I thought it through, once I let it sink in, then I let it go. I walked down to the beach once more to watch some waves. I sat in my car and read the book I just bought, enjoying the beach air and sunshine. I washed away my disappointment with fresh air blowing through the window as I enjoyed the drive home through the forest.
Pranaglider went to the beach with low expectations and was happy with what he found. I went to the beach with high expectations and was disappointed with what I found. Who did it better?