I found some time on a Saturday. I drove to the beach and arrived before first light. The waves sounded to small to be worthwhile, and I took a nap instead of suiting up and walking down the cliff in the days first light.

When I awoke I was hungry and headed to find some food. But I caught sight of the ocean and saw waves! I put wax on the longboard, yanked on my wetsuit, and walked down to the sand. One spot had a bit of wave, and most people were down the way where the waves were much better. I opted for a bit of wave to myself, and was glad I did. Someone eventually joined me but there was plenty to go around, and pleasant conversation between waves.

After, I waited for my Craigslist meet to look at a board. It was described as "knifey," which is what my other board is not. The board I rode in the morning is an egg railed, heavy log, pig shape. The new board has rails that would slice a ripe tomato! Here is a photo of each.

Heavy Pig

"Knifey"

I bought it, but the day was finished and I needed to get home to family. That was last weekend, and I am lucky enough that the family wants to go to the beach this weekend. Sure, the low tide is in the darkness, sure the swell is micro, and of course the weather is forecast to be overcast and foggy. But I'm fine with that because I have two longboards to choose between, and I'll spend the night within walking distance of several waves. I'll also have a cork blade, a surf mat, and of course swim fins if I decide to just bodysurf. Any waves I can get to will be ridden!