Thursday, September 12, 2013

Fun in the cove

Even though the cove is visible from my friends porch, I don't feel welcome there. He can get his share when the "boys" are on it by virtue of his recognizable face and aggressive wave catching. Even though I've never been talked to out there, I still sit off to the side letting the best waves go to the best surfers, or their friends. So, this Sunday was a treat. The cove wasn't awesome, but it was one of the better spots along the beach. JZ and I walked down the hill and paddled out to a crowd of about 8 people. As we paddled toward the peak the crowd paddled away from us. Eventually it was us and a few others getting all the waves we wanted. They weren't great waves but they were some of the better waves I got in the last three (dismal) months. I even got a small barrel which I exited too early and could have ridden twice as far if I had kept my balance forward and into the face of the wave.
I was on the Pacheco and I'm in just enough shape to catch many small waves for about 90 minutes. I'm not ready for winter, but I'm not as out of shape as I've been this time in years past.
Next week my wife will be gone for two weeks. I'm only working part time, so I might spend a few week days in Santa Cruz or beach camping somewhere. No swell is forecast, but maybe the week after will have waves. Also, this time of year we can get decent surf out of local wind swell, if the weather at the beach cooperates.

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