Even though the cove is visible from my friends porch, I don't feel welcome there. He can get his share when the "boys" are on it by virtue of his recognizable face and aggressive wave catching. Even though I've never been talked to out there, I still sit off to the side letting the best waves go to the best surfers, or their friends. So, this Sunday was a treat. The cove wasn't awesome, but it was one of the better spots along the beach. JZ and I walked down the hill and paddled out to a crowd of about 8 people. As we paddled toward the peak the crowd paddled away from us. Eventually it was us and a few others getting all the waves we wanted. They weren't great waves but they were some of the better waves I got in the last three (dismal) months. I even got a small barrel which I exited too early and could have ridden twice as far if I had kept my balance forward and into the face of the wave.
I was on the Pacheco and I'm in just enough shape to catch many small waves for about 90 minutes. I'm not ready for winter, but I'm not as out of shape as I've been this time in years past.
Next week my wife will be gone for two weeks. I'm only working part time, so I might spend a few week days in Santa Cruz or beach camping somewhere. No swell is forecast, but maybe the week after will have waves. Also, this time of year we can get decent surf out of local wind swell, if the weather at the beach cooperates.
Thursday, September 12, 2013
Tuesday, September 3, 2013
September
I bit of magic yesterday. I got a call from JB saying he'd like to meet at OB. I jumped on BART (bridge repair weekend) and met him at DC station. We were headed to Jud ah area but upon seeing the huge number of parked cars, settled for Riv era. This turned out to be a solid choice as the high tide light wind inside-outside waves evolved into low tide glassy connecting waves.
I was on the 5GF and was catching plenty of 4ft waves. I got some disrespect but an equal amount of interest in the mat. Wave-riding wise I got a few okay rides but wished for more edge control to make harder bottom turns. Towards the end of the session I increased the inflation and found more edge, but still matty in my turns.
Previously I'd been having trouble with my fins carving a sore into my ankle every surf. I spent some time carving and sanding away at the strap and really noticed the improvement yesterday in the water. I got a smaller sore in a different spot, so it's not perfect, but it's better. I also drilled some drain holes at the toes (top and bottom) and came home with much less sand. Overall it's a marked improvement without any loss of power for the fins. They really felt great. I was getting some folding at the toe and I think it's because I took some material (neoprene) off the straps and now my toes don't go as far into the foot pocket. It was only during extreme situations like going over the falls and trying to get my feet under me. Never while kicking like the old, soft, too big duck feet did.
JB also got some good rides and although he looks awkward, he threw some solid turns that I witnessed. One mid-face snap that released the fins just a bit, and one top turn where he nearly got the fins above the lip. Both times on his backside riding, so that's cool.
I was on the 5GF and was catching plenty of 4ft waves. I got some disrespect but an equal amount of interest in the mat. Wave-riding wise I got a few okay rides but wished for more edge control to make harder bottom turns. Towards the end of the session I increased the inflation and found more edge, but still matty in my turns.
Previously I'd been having trouble with my fins carving a sore into my ankle every surf. I spent some time carving and sanding away at the strap and really noticed the improvement yesterday in the water. I got a smaller sore in a different spot, so it's not perfect, but it's better. I also drilled some drain holes at the toes (top and bottom) and came home with much less sand. Overall it's a marked improvement without any loss of power for the fins. They really felt great. I was getting some folding at the toe and I think it's because I took some material (neoprene) off the straps and now my toes don't go as far into the foot pocket. It was only during extreme situations like going over the falls and trying to get my feet under me. Never while kicking like the old, soft, too big duck feet did.
JB also got some good rides and although he looks awkward, he threw some solid turns that I witnessed. One mid-face snap that released the fins just a bit, and one top turn where he nearly got the fins above the lip. Both times on his backside riding, so that's cool.
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