Wanderlust

I found an excuse to travel to San Diego in November, and here I sit in the La Jolla coffee shop typing about the lack of surf. Actually, let's flip it and talk instead about the drive. I left home after work, dinner, and a quick nap. I drove through the night listening to WTF podcasts to stay awake and arrived in the pre-dawn at Blacks. I don't know the best access, but in the morning light I was able to figure out one. This means that it's entirely possible to make a strike on Blacks with only a single day off of work required. If I see an opportunity I want to capitalize on I can be here by dawn, surf once or twice, sleep the rest of the day and reverse the overnight drive and be back to work a day later. I'm not sure I'd be of much use that day at work, but with my new limited work schedule and the double day field days that I sometimes do in winter, I may not need to do much work if things work out just right.
Furthermore, Blacks is the furthest south spot I would drive that far for, with a few in between I'd like to surf as well, mostly bunched around Santa Barbara.
As for the present surf conditions, the CDIP buoy for Southern California shows 7'@12s from 315deg. I've been told Blacks is my best bet, and I can't really tell from the cliff angle/distance, but to me it looks waist high at best. The shape doesn't look appealing either with rangy walls that close out. I wonder if I was even looking at the right stretch of beach.
And since this is the only time I'll probably ever have a segway between surfing and a podcast, I want to talk about the WTF podcast. It is funny and deep and always entertaining. There is a stereotype of stand-up comics having tortured histories. The host of WTF, Marc Maron, is no exception and he speaks to my own frustrated with everything/nothing dark side. His interviews often try to bring out dark experiences of the comics he interviews. Sometimes he uncovers some deep dark shit, but because the stories are coming from comics they are layered with humor to break the tension. Other times the guest on the show will be a light hearted person without any dark side to uncover, but Marc still finds what makes them tick, what makes them special. With his comic style you might expect him to ridicule the guests softer side (or any side) but he always conducts the interviews with compassion, which helps the guest open up. Unlike a typical interviewer Marc interjects his own experiences as they relate to the topic, sometimes stepping on his guests stories. I thought this was irritating but I now believe it makes the show more conversational, and because Marc is opening up the guest opens up too. If I had the opportunity to talk to Marc about his interruptions I would say, "Keep it up, don't change a thing."
Anyway, this is what happens when I drive all night then have a capichino for breakfast, only to discover free WiFi and nothing else to do.

Heart Rate Monitor

During some great days last winter I found myself so out of shape I couldn't even make it to the peak. I spend whole sessions on the shoulder trying to paddle against the current and not catching waves. I have since taken action to get into better shape, and one part of that is cardio fitness. I joined a gym (climbing gym with weights and bikes, etc.) and started riding the stationary bikes. Those bikes have heart rate monitors built in and I got curious about my HR during other exercises. I bought myself a Polar FT60 and began playing with it.
I'm going to skip all the functions and featurs discussion and hit at the *heart of the matter. When surfing my HR goes from low 100s when sitting to ~175 when paddling for a wave, or back out with duckdives. When paddling for position or through a rip I'm in the upper 150s. After I'm done paddling my heart rate gets back down into the low 120s in about a minute.
Biking to work in traffic with stoplights, etc. gives me a very similar workout.
Here's the thing, the HRM wants me to spend the largest amount of time in the 135-145range but I don't really know if that's right for me. Surfing seems to be sprint and rest, so shouldn't my workouts be sprint and rest? For now I'm just exercising however as often as I can motivate.
*About using the HRM in the ocean. The HRM isn't perfect and doesn't always pick up my heart rate even on dry land. I tried to use it in Maui while swiming in the ocean and that didn't ever work for me. I have been able to get it to work while surfing, although inconsistantly. I think what's happening is that the wetsuit keeps most of the water off my chest so when I'm not duck-diving the HRM works. If I get washed and my suit flushes the HRM stops working until the water runs out. Or, if the HRM shifts around and slides down then it's shot for the session. One more thing, the HRM is a pod that attaches to a strap and is worn on your sternum. This doesn't work for surfing (paddling problems) but the thing works for me when I put the pod on my back.
I've been doing cardio with some weights for a few months now, inconsistantly, but I've found anything I do to stay in shape for surfing helps, and I think I'll keep doing what I can to keep improving. Can't get barreled if I can't get the wave.

November offshore

This November has been a good one for OB with regular offshore wind and consistent waves in the manageable size range. Some have even been saying it's been some of the best run of good conditions ever, but I think that's more related to the surf contest that was in town and seeing the same old spot through the eyes of a pro surfer. I don't have any use for surf contests, but it was inspiring to see how well the pros made use of the waves and made me think the waves look better than I would have before.
I've gotten out a few of the days and have had some fun. Nothing epic, but much better than the miserable summer we had. The low tides have been after noon and I've been surfing the better morning wind, so mostly I've been getting offshore groomed but mushy waves (with some juice mixed in to keep me on my toes.)
I've been surfing the Pacheco which has been a good all around board with float to catch soft waves but able to handle the juice when it comes. Yesterday I took out the Quintara and didn't feel like I missed the extra float of the Pacheco. I had one morning a few weeks ago that I would have felt good about the Noriega. I surfed 6-8' Tarval with strong offshores, two other guys out. I would have like to have been able to track down the rangy peaks better, and get in a bit earlier since the lips were throwing wide.
As part of the great waves I've been working on fitness so I can be better prepared for winter this year. I'll expand in a later post.