My usual internet beach report data source is offline. It's a great resource with a camera pointed at the beach and a weather station showing the last 72-hours worth of data. But it wasn't working so I used an alternative, which lead me to believe it was a little too windy. The NOAA weather forecast told me Sunday would have less wind. Well...
I got word mid-day on Saturday that the morning had been clean enough to surf, although not great waves. I had already missed my window to go to the beach, and I was hopeful I had made the right choice to wait for Sunday. I knew hadn't at 5am Sunday when the wind reports were in the double-digits in some places, and the waves went from small and clean (Saturday) to small and junky Sunday.
There should be a word for that feeling when you realized you've made a mistake, but it's 24-hours too late to fix it, and you'll have to wait a whole work week to make up for it. "Adulthood" kinda works, but feels cynical. "Hindsight is 20/20" is similar, but doesn't describe the feeling. It needs to convey regret, with nobody to blame but yourself, but also knowing you were trying to make the best decision. The opposite, driving to the beach on Saturday to find it un-surf-able, then to find Sunday is better but you can't go, is worse. I think it's worse because at least on Saturday I was productive taking care of chores and rushing through a board repair. After a bit of moping, I was productive on Sunday too. No wasted gas, no wasted time. I even got some exercise. Very little, but more than nothing.
Monday, September 24, 2018
Monday, September 17, 2018
Got one
I had the chance this weekend to get that V-pin into some waves. I went out to Sunday morning Pleasure Point, just me and a hundred others. I stuck to Sewers hoping to find a pinball wall. I got one really good one where the board held a line and speed as the wall ran with a bit of throw of the lip. No barrel, just a nice run with the curl.
There were more than a few surf matters out picking up all the small ones that passed below the main lineup. That used to be a wave I could shoulder hop to keep myself occupied while I waited for the wide swinging waves. Instead I stayed occupied watching the matters take off in the barrel, run the short peaks, ride waves together, and generally have a good time. I absorbed some of the stoke radiating off of them, but needed some actual waves to feel satisfied. So I paddled over to Rockview.
There were a few beginners out at Rockview and I offered advice on how to catch the tricky wave to one guy. He told me he was on a borrowed longboard and didn't want to smash it. I shared my story of once riding my fathers longboard at Rockview many years ago and on one wave driving the nose strait into the reef. He didn't think the story funny, but I told him it hadn't happened since! The on the next wave history repeated itself and I drove the V-pin into the reef. I stood up in waist deep water, flipped the board over and saw what I didn't want to see. Split open glass with mud in the crack along the nose, and a nice ding on the other side of the nose to match. I headed o the beach.
So after one good wave and no more than three other waves, the V-pin needs repair. I walked the board back home thinking I'd throw on some swim fins and take the mat out to Rockview. When I got home the door was locked and I hadn't brought a key with me surfing. It was a beautiful morning and it made perfect sense that my wife and little guy would want to take a walk, play on the beach, do anything except sit at home waiting for me to return. So I wasn't all that mad as I sat in my wetsuit on the front porch for 30-min waiting for my family to come home and let me in. (Not unlike a dog in the rain.)
Even with only the few waves I got I could tell the board felt good under me. I need to fix it, and be more careful next time. I have to remember to not force it and ride the right board for the conditions, even if that "board" is a bag of air, or even just my body. I have plenty of options on hand specifically so that I can take full advantage of whatever the ocean offers. No need to take a longboard to a nasty little slab!
There were more than a few surf matters out picking up all the small ones that passed below the main lineup. That used to be a wave I could shoulder hop to keep myself occupied while I waited for the wide swinging waves. Instead I stayed occupied watching the matters take off in the barrel, run the short peaks, ride waves together, and generally have a good time. I absorbed some of the stoke radiating off of them, but needed some actual waves to feel satisfied. So I paddled over to Rockview.
There were a few beginners out at Rockview and I offered advice on how to catch the tricky wave to one guy. He told me he was on a borrowed longboard and didn't want to smash it. I shared my story of once riding my fathers longboard at Rockview many years ago and on one wave driving the nose strait into the reef. He didn't think the story funny, but I told him it hadn't happened since! The on the next wave history repeated itself and I drove the V-pin into the reef. I stood up in waist deep water, flipped the board over and saw what I didn't want to see. Split open glass with mud in the crack along the nose, and a nice ding on the other side of the nose to match. I headed o the beach.
So after one good wave and no more than three other waves, the V-pin needs repair. I walked the board back home thinking I'd throw on some swim fins and take the mat out to Rockview. When I got home the door was locked and I hadn't brought a key with me surfing. It was a beautiful morning and it made perfect sense that my wife and little guy would want to take a walk, play on the beach, do anything except sit at home waiting for me to return. So I wasn't all that mad as I sat in my wetsuit on the front porch for 30-min waiting for my family to come home and let me in. (Not unlike a dog in the rain.)
Even with only the few waves I got I could tell the board felt good under me. I need to fix it, and be more careful next time. I have to remember to not force it and ride the right board for the conditions, even if that "board" is a bag of air, or even just my body. I have plenty of options on hand specifically so that I can take full advantage of whatever the ocean offers. No need to take a longboard to a nasty little slab!
Wednesday, September 12, 2018
Early Memories
I was inspired by pranaglider's latest blog post to write about my own early surfing memories.
I recall going on vacation with a friend to a condo on the beach in Coronado, San Diego. We had cheap bodyboards but no fins. We were in grammer school, and I wasn't a good swimmer when I was that young, and the surf was not small. Regardless, we spent hours trying to walk/hop/swim/paddle our bodyboards through the lines of whitewater. We were never successful in getting through the broken waves. After what felt like a long time, so was probably about 20 mins., we would agree to give up and go in. The sand was boring so we would return to the water several more times each day, trying our best, but never succeeding. Nothing to show for it but raw nipples.
I recall my dad taking me and that same friend to "The Jetty" in Half Moon Bay. The waves were smaller and easier and we could walk out to where they first flopped over. We rode waves strait to the beach until we were to cold to continue. We had so much fun we convinced our other friends to buy cheap bodyboards and come with us. This opened up more parents to drive us, more friends to frolic with, and the fun continued through high school. By high school it was a tangent to the "real" surfing I was doing, but I never missed an opportunity to go ride waves up onto the sand with my friends.
The best part of those early days at The Jetty was my dad could park at the water's edge and watch us. Watching us play in the waves stirred his memories of surfing back before his career, kids, and the Vietnam War tore him from his carefree high school life. He borrowed a way-to-small funboard and took a trip to Santa Cruz with a coworker who surfed. He didn't invite, or even tell me, what he was doing. I understand now that he didn't know if his body, wrecked by a desk job, alcohol, and smoking could survive the ocean.
He barely survived, but found his old stoke. I come back into the story when we bought wetsuits, the longest boards we could find (pre-longboard resurgence) and started making trips to Santa Cruz every weekend. He got healthy and I got stronger and the rest is for another time...
I recall going on vacation with a friend to a condo on the beach in Coronado, San Diego. We had cheap bodyboards but no fins. We were in grammer school, and I wasn't a good swimmer when I was that young, and the surf was not small. Regardless, we spent hours trying to walk/hop/swim/paddle our bodyboards through the lines of whitewater. We were never successful in getting through the broken waves. After what felt like a long time, so was probably about 20 mins., we would agree to give up and go in. The sand was boring so we would return to the water several more times each day, trying our best, but never succeeding. Nothing to show for it but raw nipples.
I recall my dad taking me and that same friend to "The Jetty" in Half Moon Bay. The waves were smaller and easier and we could walk out to where they first flopped over. We rode waves strait to the beach until we were to cold to continue. We had so much fun we convinced our other friends to buy cheap bodyboards and come with us. This opened up more parents to drive us, more friends to frolic with, and the fun continued through high school. By high school it was a tangent to the "real" surfing I was doing, but I never missed an opportunity to go ride waves up onto the sand with my friends.
The best part of those early days at The Jetty was my dad could park at the water's edge and watch us. Watching us play in the waves stirred his memories of surfing back before his career, kids, and the Vietnam War tore him from his carefree high school life. He borrowed a way-to-small funboard and took a trip to Santa Cruz with a coworker who surfed. He didn't invite, or even tell me, what he was doing. I understand now that he didn't know if his body, wrecked by a desk job, alcohol, and smoking could survive the ocean.
He barely survived, but found his old stoke. I come back into the story when we bought wetsuits, the longest boards we could find (pre-longboard resurgence) and started making trips to Santa Cruz every weekend. He got healthy and I got stronger and the rest is for another time...
Thursday, August 30, 2018
I found some time on a Saturday. I drove to the beach and arrived before first light. The waves sounded to small to be worthwhile, and I took a nap instead of suiting up and walking down the cliff in the days first light.
When I awoke I was hungry and headed to find some food. But I caught sight of the ocean and saw waves! I put wax on the longboard, yanked on my wetsuit, and walked down to the sand. One spot had a bit of wave, and most people were down the way where the waves were much better. I opted for a bit of wave to myself, and was glad I did. Someone eventually joined me but there was plenty to go around, and pleasant conversation between waves.
After, I waited for my Craigslist meet to look at a board. It was described as "knifey," which is what my other board is not. The board I rode in the morning is an egg railed, heavy log, pig shape. The new board has rails that would slice a ripe tomato! Here is a photo of each.
 |
| Heavy Pig |
 |
| "Knifey" |
Wednesday, July 18, 2018
I want to feel that feeling again...
I want to feel cold ocean water on bare feet.
I want to feel the stretch of my body reaching forward with both arms knee paddling.
I want to feel the slow-motion lift of my board as a roller picks me up.
I want to feel the doubt that the board will complete the bottom turn in time to make it into that first sections.
I want to feel the acceleration through a steep section.
I want to feel my feet step along the wax bumps.
I want to feel the sun in my eyes, glistening off the smooth ocean surface.
I no longer own that board.
I no longer live at the beach.
I no longer have time off in the middle of the day during the work-week.
I no longer know every beach bum by sight, and many by name.
I have a career.
I have a child, wife, family.
I have small boards that represent the pinnacle of my abilities before my life changed.
I have memories.
I have warm comfort.
I have responsibilities, and the rewards that follow living up to those responsibilities.
I will raise my child to be independent.
I will buy a board that reminds me of my youth.
I will find the time.
I will return to the ocean again.
I will feel the cold ocean water on my bare feet.
I want to feel the stretch of my body reaching forward with both arms knee paddling.
I want to feel the slow-motion lift of my board as a roller picks me up.
I want to feel the doubt that the board will complete the bottom turn in time to make it into that first sections.
I want to feel the acceleration through a steep section.
I want to feel my feet step along the wax bumps.
I want to feel the sun in my eyes, glistening off the smooth ocean surface.
I no longer own that board.
I no longer live at the beach.
I no longer have time off in the middle of the day during the work-week.
I no longer know every beach bum by sight, and many by name.
I have a career.
I have a child, wife, family.
I have small boards that represent the pinnacle of my abilities before my life changed.
I have memories.
I have warm comfort.
I have responsibilities, and the rewards that follow living up to those responsibilities.
I will raise my child to be independent.
I will buy a board that reminds me of my youth.
I will find the time.
I will return to the ocean again.
I will feel the cold ocean water on my bare feet.
Tuesday, May 1, 2018
2 years
What happened? Where was I?
Well... I had some employment troubles, and then got into a job I like. But even larger than that, the last 2 years I've been a father.
It's funny to think about it. I used to feel bad for new fathers because they had to stop surfing to be there for the family. I wanted to never be a father because I didn't want to give up what little free time I had to visit the ocean. As it worked out, I stopped wanting to go to the ocean.
Sure, a big part of it was general exhaustion. I didn't want to load my car, make the drive and the search, and then drive back home, clean up, and still do the Daddy Duties. But after the first year or so, things got easier. My child required less of me so I could get some good rest, and I still didn't want to go surfing. I wanted to stay home with my family. By my choice.
I tried to convince my wife to bring the family to the beach, and we even did a few times. For those first two years that was just about the only time I went surfing. I still thought about it, but I just didn't do it.
So now I'm at the 2 year mark and feeling good. I don't surf every weekend, but I will probably surf more. There are weekend days when the family has plans that don't necessarily include me and so I can go off to do my thing without missing out on family things. I'm not free from responsibility, I still have a child to take care of much of the time. But the pull of the ocean is gaining strength.
I bought a used SUP a while back. I have used it for exercise in the harbor on days when I didn't feel free to spend half the day driving to the beach. I used it when the waves were small but the weather was great. I even used it to battle shifty head-high waves. But the other weekend I used it for the "ultimate" adventure.
There's a spot that can have good waves, but no road goes there. The closest parking is still an hour walk away. I parked at the other parking lot that was even further away and embarked on a 2-mile paddle on the SUP. I found that if I kept a relaxed pace I could paddle for a long time. People were strolling along the beach and I found paddling is faster (slightly) than walking.
So I made the paddle and even got lucky. The waves were small but had good shape. I was alone which allowed me to push myself. All things worked out and I felt like I learned some more about riding this huge board in small waves. The waves shut down after an hour and I made the long paddle back to the car.
The SUP adventure was a long drive and 3 hours on the water. I was tired, but not nearly as exhausted as I would be if I had been surfing a regular board for 3 hours. The muscles used are not as unusual as surfing muscles, so the exercise isn't as strenuous. That being said, it misses some of the things I like about surfing. It feels less connected to the ocean and to the wave. I can't see myself getting a tube on a SUP. The board is less maneuverable than the longest log I've ever ridden. But, if it gets me on the water, it's worth it. In fact it's just a bonus that I can ride waves at all on the thing. Now I've started looking around at where else I could make a long paddle to get to a remote wave. I've got a few in mind already and I'm just waiting for conditions to be right.
Well... I had some employment troubles, and then got into a job I like. But even larger than that, the last 2 years I've been a father.
It's funny to think about it. I used to feel bad for new fathers because they had to stop surfing to be there for the family. I wanted to never be a father because I didn't want to give up what little free time I had to visit the ocean. As it worked out, I stopped wanting to go to the ocean.
Sure, a big part of it was general exhaustion. I didn't want to load my car, make the drive and the search, and then drive back home, clean up, and still do the Daddy Duties. But after the first year or so, things got easier. My child required less of me so I could get some good rest, and I still didn't want to go surfing. I wanted to stay home with my family. By my choice.
I tried to convince my wife to bring the family to the beach, and we even did a few times. For those first two years that was just about the only time I went surfing. I still thought about it, but I just didn't do it.
So now I'm at the 2 year mark and feeling good. I don't surf every weekend, but I will probably surf more. There are weekend days when the family has plans that don't necessarily include me and so I can go off to do my thing without missing out on family things. I'm not free from responsibility, I still have a child to take care of much of the time. But the pull of the ocean is gaining strength.
I bought a used SUP a while back. I have used it for exercise in the harbor on days when I didn't feel free to spend half the day driving to the beach. I used it when the waves were small but the weather was great. I even used it to battle shifty head-high waves. But the other weekend I used it for the "ultimate" adventure.
There's a spot that can have good waves, but no road goes there. The closest parking is still an hour walk away. I parked at the other parking lot that was even further away and embarked on a 2-mile paddle on the SUP. I found that if I kept a relaxed pace I could paddle for a long time. People were strolling along the beach and I found paddling is faster (slightly) than walking.
So I made the paddle and even got lucky. The waves were small but had good shape. I was alone which allowed me to push myself. All things worked out and I felt like I learned some more about riding this huge board in small waves. The waves shut down after an hour and I made the long paddle back to the car.
The SUP adventure was a long drive and 3 hours on the water. I was tired, but not nearly as exhausted as I would be if I had been surfing a regular board for 3 hours. The muscles used are not as unusual as surfing muscles, so the exercise isn't as strenuous. That being said, it misses some of the things I like about surfing. It feels less connected to the ocean and to the wave. I can't see myself getting a tube on a SUP. The board is less maneuverable than the longest log I've ever ridden. But, if it gets me on the water, it's worth it. In fact it's just a bonus that I can ride waves at all on the thing. Now I've started looking around at where else I could make a long paddle to get to a remote wave. I've got a few in mind already and I'm just waiting for conditions to be right.
Wednesday, April 25, 2018
More thoughts on rails
Tom Curren has been exploring a type of surfboard that has similarities to GG's spoon and the cork paipo's I've played with. All three have very thin rails and flex.
https://www.theinertia.com/surf/tom-curren-and-tom-wegener-could-be-ushering-in-a-new-era-of-surfboard-design/
Meanwhile, I bought a SUP and became a father, not in that order.
Being a father means less energy to go out and have an adventure. It's also hard to leave home when a 2-year-old asks if you're going to the park with him and mommy. So I have hardly surfed in two years.
But I did last weekend! I took the SUP on a 2-mile paddle to a wave with nobody around. The wave wasn't worth the effort, but it was a nice bonus. I would have been happy with just the paddle adventure. The weather was great, the waves were small and good enough for me to improve my SUP wave skills a few degrees.
While planning the paddle I considered bringing a surfboard along, or more easily my cork bodyboard and surfmat. I opted to not bother because 1) I didn't know what I was getting myself into, and 2) there had been a recent shark "attack" (ankle bitter) at this remote spot. As it was the SUP was a good option for the waves I found.
There are places around here that have waves but difficult access. Almost all of them are within 2-miles of some decent beach access, and so are within reach of a SUP. My goal all along has been to expand the options I have for surfing, and the SUP certainly does that. It's harder to control in the waves, and I don't get much connection to the waves like I get on boards that leave me low in the water, but I'm out riding waves and getting exercise.
Next up, hydrofoil?
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/14093-the-beginners-guide-to-foil-surfing
(probably not)
https://www.theinertia.com/surf/tom-curren-and-tom-wegener-could-be-ushering-in-a-new-era-of-surfboard-design/
Meanwhile, I bought a SUP and became a father, not in that order.
Being a father means less energy to go out and have an adventure. It's also hard to leave home when a 2-year-old asks if you're going to the park with him and mommy. So I have hardly surfed in two years.
But I did last weekend! I took the SUP on a 2-mile paddle to a wave with nobody around. The wave wasn't worth the effort, but it was a nice bonus. I would have been happy with just the paddle adventure. The weather was great, the waves were small and good enough for me to improve my SUP wave skills a few degrees.
While planning the paddle I considered bringing a surfboard along, or more easily my cork bodyboard and surfmat. I opted to not bother because 1) I didn't know what I was getting myself into, and 2) there had been a recent shark "attack" (ankle bitter) at this remote spot. As it was the SUP was a good option for the waves I found.
There are places around here that have waves but difficult access. Almost all of them are within 2-miles of some decent beach access, and so are within reach of a SUP. My goal all along has been to expand the options I have for surfing, and the SUP certainly does that. It's harder to control in the waves, and I don't get much connection to the waves like I get on boards that leave me low in the water, but I'm out riding waves and getting exercise.
Next up, hydrofoil?
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/14093-the-beginners-guide-to-foil-surfing
(probably not)
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