I surfed Mi4le Friday mid-morning hitting the sweet spot between the dawn crew and the late morning crew. The tide was really low and the dawn crew wasn't having much luck on the inside reef. I was, though, on my 5GF. Late drops with occasional lip launch belly flop then run the inside hollows. I did this on fast rotation for about an hour before the hard board surfers caught on and started competing with me for waves. I took the opportunity to take some waves at the outer second peak. Then the late morning crew came out and pushed me off that peak too. I ended up at 1st peak dumps, which was showing potential for connecting all the way in. I was tired by then so I took one in and called it a successful session.
As I was first heading out a board surfer coming in stopped to ask me about the mat. He had plans for a vacation to Mexico and wasn't sure he could bring a board. I told him the mat is difficult at first, but plenty of fun. It travels well, and I gave him a few fin options with a quick lesson on how to choose. I directed him to the 4GF website, but also offered the option to pick up a Krypt in town at Sawyer if he didn't have patience to wait for what I told him was, in my opinion, a better mat for most people (4GF.)
Friday was fun and fulfilling, so I didn't feel a need to challenge the in-town Saturday masses for marginal waves. I checked at dawn and didn't like what I saw at Suicides. I ate a big breakfast and cleaned up the house a bit. I was ready to leave town but made one last check of the conditions. On my way to the beach I ran into another surf matter suiting up and decided to suit up too, site unseen. We ended up disagreeing on the best choice and he went to Sewers while I went to Suicides. I think I made the better choice, because I got quite a few waves in one hour while he got three in the same time. While I was out surfing I got a few questions from some board surfers in the water.
Things have changed for mat surfing in the last 5-10 years since I first tried a mat. At first the questions were more like, "What the F is that thing?" Now the questions are more like, "Is that one of Paul Gross's mats." and "Where can I get one?" I still get a snide remark just about every time I ride, but it really doesn't bother me because I'm usually having a great time riding tons of waves away from the main peak!
Monday, April 21, 2014
Wednesday, April 16, 2014
A Fuca waves
Took a trip to the Great NW to visit the parents. The weather was great and there was a small swell in the water. It was a bad angle for the side of the Strait I was on, but we set off anyway. The first few stops showed no signs of any swell and we had decided to just look at spots. We got to one of the more obvious spots and there the swell was. The normal wave was too small to ride but showing it's form. I jumped in the water at the other side, where the main wave normally blows out the shoal ruining that other wave. It was just big enough to surf on one of my fathers 10' boards, and the wave was a quick section to a channel, but I surfed by myself for an hour in knee high waves. Only the largest wave of the set was knee high, but I had fun. The tide change was enough to kill it and I came in and sat on the cobbles and ate Spam out of the can with my dad. He took a few photos of me surfing, but I promised to not make them public.
The rest of the trip was more landlocked. I tried fly fishing casting with my father, did gardening with my mother, and we all worked together to split some logs for next winter's firewood. I spent one day walking around Seattle and found it pleasant enough to explore further.
I gave a surf report to the Js and JB has family closer to the surf spot that my parents are. He showed interest in making a surf trip in that area, and it would be easy for me, so I'm down. JZ had a great trip to mainland Mex with consistent (if not epic) surf the whole trip. If I can convince someone to pay me to use my skills (job) then I'd like to mex it up too.
The rest of the trip was more landlocked. I tried fly fishing casting with my father, did gardening with my mother, and we all worked together to split some logs for next winter's firewood. I spent one day walking around Seattle and found it pleasant enough to explore further.
I gave a surf report to the Js and JB has family closer to the surf spot that my parents are. He showed interest in making a surf trip in that area, and it would be easy for me, so I'm down. JZ had a great trip to mainland Mex with consistent (if not epic) surf the whole trip. If I can convince someone to pay me to use my skills (job) then I'd like to mex it up too.
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