Surf More

I skipped surfing this last week and it's causing me to dream of surfing when I should be working. At times  like this I try to think of how I can surf more, and I've decided to jot down a list.

• Always have the right equipment for the conditions.
• Work less (housework included.)
• Go for it! Quit worrying and go surfing.
• Stay at the beach longer. Whether this means a double dip or waiting for conditions to be surfable. Or, staying overnight for multiple days of surfing.
• Purchase a second wetsuit to avoid the dreaded cold wetsuit afternoon scramble. Mostly the problem is marginal waves don't look good enough for a wet wetsuit, so I don't surf again.
• Get in better shape for longer surf sessions.
• Plan surf vacations.

There are likely more that can go on this list, but that's off the top of my head while I should be working at work. Some of these are contrary to my financial situation, some of them should be followed based on my financial situation.
I updated my "following these blogs" list with some blogs that I check often. They're always good for some mind surfing.
With the house comes outdoor space for activities. The flexspoon was uncovered from the back of the closet and I just so happen to have my dad's disk sander on hand as part of the tool dump he made to help me do repairs on the new house. Time to sand sand sand that spoon to get more flex in it. I also found some high density closed cell foam with adhesive backing. This will be the deck pad once I'm satisfied with what I've done on the deck. The flex spoon should fit into my recent move toward "closer to the wave" surfing.
I would like to make myself some  palowina boards. I'd like a wide paipo, narrow paipo, square-ish stand up alaia and longer typical shape alaia. At around $150 per blank, that's a whole lot  of money for experiments. Money I don't have on hand to spend just now. So I'll wait on that.
Last time I surfed I bodysurfed 6-8' SFOB around Moraga. It was a bit crossed up making hollow peaks. I wanted to use the mat but I know at that size it's difficult to pull the mat through whitewater. So, I opted for the body, wondering if I would survive. I was able to catch some waves but was having problems not making it down the face of the wave, and chasing peaks back and forth. I'd get near a peak and get tossed, or watch waves break just out of reach when on a board I could have covered the distance. The few I did make the drop were fast and intense. Bodysurfing bigger waves relies on instinct because you can't see much of what's going on with water spraying everywhere and things happening so fast. My bodysurfing instinct is out of date. But I did have enough fun that I'll be into trying it again.