So I've got myself a solid quiver of Hess boards. If I could I would fill in the spot between the 6' Quintara and the 7'5" Noriega with a 6'10"-ish Quintara or Lola. For those days when the smaller boards would leave me drifting with the current, but the 7'5" is more than is needed.
So except that, I don't really have an excuse to go board shopping. I have retained the habit of watching the web for Hess boards and there is a board for sale in Southern California that is very similar to my Pacheco, and for a great price $650! I want to buy it just because it's a great price, and if I could expect the other Pacheco to fall apart in a few years I would make arrangements for the "back-up" board. But I can't fool myself that these Hess boards will be falling apart any time this decade, or ever under my feet. I can imagine giving these boards away to someone who hasn't even been born yet, some kid who I help learn to surf.
So I will hold off on this other Pacheco and keep an eye out for a 6'10"-ish board with slimmer hips than the Pacheco but more paddle than my Quintara. In fact if anyone is out there, I'd trade my 6'1" Quintara for a 6'6" to 7' Lola or Quintara. Please!
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Catch-up on events
Surfed Blacks 2 ft fun warm sunny, not classic Blacks.
Bought a new wetsuit. Went with the same model as last time (oneil mutant) because it fit perfectly. This one is 5/4 and has a better chest closing system. I was complaining about the old one and how it would come loose and the guy at the shop said, "That hasn't happened since the first year they made those suits." We talked more and I found out the suit I'd been wearing was 4+ years old. Not a bad run! With the new suit being thicker and not leaking water I'm sitting out there overheated sometimes. Nice.
Surfed OB several times in December, size range 6-10'. Got the Noriega semi-gun in the water and made some bigger drops, pulled into smaller tubes, paddled against the current and succeeded! Reminded myself that when the waves are 8'+ you have to paddle down the face a few extra strokes. Offshore winds and sunny days!
Picked up a nagging cough that has been sapping my energy making the 6-8' days at OB more of a struggle than they should be. Still fighting it, and hitting the gym, gonna surf tomorrow if it looks good.
Surfed John St. in SC. Not classic, or even very good. More people than should have been out for the conditions. The swell was too north, and the next cove up was 8'+ with a small, scattered crowd. Would have been the call and I might have survived even with the low energy from this cough. Maybe not...
At some point at the gym I hyper-extended my elbow. I should let it rest, but I'm still doing everything I normally do, but at least I'm not doing bar dips, which is when it happened. I'm also adding bicep curls to my workout to try to prevent it from happening again. I also realized that just cardio at the gym isn't enough for a surf workout. I need to do strength/endurance work on my arms, and a bit of strength training on my legs and core. If I start going regularly I should consider making a plan/schedule of what/when/how much.
Spending the poor quality surf days on the smallest board would also be a good idea, as would bodysurfing if conditions dictate.
Bought a new wetsuit. Went with the same model as last time (oneil mutant) because it fit perfectly. This one is 5/4 and has a better chest closing system. I was complaining about the old one and how it would come loose and the guy at the shop said, "That hasn't happened since the first year they made those suits." We talked more and I found out the suit I'd been wearing was 4+ years old. Not a bad run! With the new suit being thicker and not leaking water I'm sitting out there overheated sometimes. Nice.
Surfed OB several times in December, size range 6-10'. Got the Noriega semi-gun in the water and made some bigger drops, pulled into smaller tubes, paddled against the current and succeeded! Reminded myself that when the waves are 8'+ you have to paddle down the face a few extra strokes. Offshore winds and sunny days!
Picked up a nagging cough that has been sapping my energy making the 6-8' days at OB more of a struggle than they should be. Still fighting it, and hitting the gym, gonna surf tomorrow if it looks good.
Surfed John St. in SC. Not classic, or even very good. More people than should have been out for the conditions. The swell was too north, and the next cove up was 8'+ with a small, scattered crowd. Would have been the call and I might have survived even with the low energy from this cough. Maybe not...
At some point at the gym I hyper-extended my elbow. I should let it rest, but I'm still doing everything I normally do, but at least I'm not doing bar dips, which is when it happened. I'm also adding bicep curls to my workout to try to prevent it from happening again. I also realized that just cardio at the gym isn't enough for a surf workout. I need to do strength/endurance work on my arms, and a bit of strength training on my legs and core. If I start going regularly I should consider making a plan/schedule of what/when/how much.
Spending the poor quality surf days on the smallest board would also be a good idea, as would bodysurfing if conditions dictate.
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