I went out to G's with JB last weekend. I brought my 6'0" because I wanted to try it after having ridden the TH so much lately. I had a terrible time. I couldn't get into the wave before the thump, and I don't have the skill to get in under it on this board. After an hour+ of trying, I went in having never ridden a wave. I walked past R's and looked at Funboards. Went back to R's where the waves looked better. I think I could have had a decent surf there if I wasn't already tired. I rode one on my knees because I couldn't get my feet under me in time. I finally made it to my feet and rode a pitiful left. I rode it to the beach to call it a day.
I had forgotten the lesson I learned at G's, bring more foam. The wave has a soft part just before the thump. With a big enough board I can get in at the soft part and be on my feet ready when it thumps. Without that foam it's just a nightmare. (Alternatively, less foam makes handling the thump a little easier, but I'm far out of shape for that.) So this weekend I plan to return to G's, this time back on the TH.
And there was another issue besides picking the wrong board; being out of shape. I've had a stressful run of weeks at work and missed opportunities for getting away from my desk for a walk. I have been out on a few field days, which at least gets my body moving, but apparently it isn't enough. So this week I forced myself for a few walks, did a few squat reps (just bodyweight) and thought about doing some push-ups. I also thought about how skateboarding is a good way to strengthen my knees and legs. I looked to Utube for inspiration and instead found an affordable "surfskate" option. The WaterBourne surfskate and rail adapters are supposed to make skating feel more like surfing. For $100 shipped, I thought it was worth the experiment. It arrived yesterday and I put it together and got a little skating in.
It's certainly a work-out because there's not much room for straight legged riding. Kicking is difficult with the extra height of the board and the introduced loose feeling. The recommended approach is to instead use the adapter advantage and pump to generate speed. I tried and just barely could feel anything. My feet and legs were tired after just a few minutes and I stopped to get back to family duties. It's worth more trying, although I wasn't blown away at the feeling of it. If it gets me out of the house, it's worth it.
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