Inspiration

I didn't fully utilize the "La Bomba"TM swell this weekend. I only surfed Saturday, although the wind wasn't blowing Sunday morning and I could have gone for the two days of surf. On Saturday we were afraid of the forecasted south wind and reacted more to what we thought would happen than what actually happened. We hid from the wind at sunrise Saturday. We went to the fun little novelty wave that's protected from the wind but isn't much of a wave. The outside left was working because the wind never came up. It was, at 6 people, 3x more crowded than I've ever seen it. To be fair, it's not my first, or even second choice spot, so I don't have much experience with how crowded it gets. Chatting with a guy who surfed the outside while we were on the inside he agreed that it was the most crowded he'd ever seen it in his 20+ years of surfing there. Still, I got some fun waves. I did what I consider my best cutback of the year. I'm experienced enough to know that what it felt like is not what it looked like, which brings me to some inspiration.

The Displacmentia Blog has a post today that reminds me that hulls are fun! And that hulls are not for show. I have a little 6' hull, and longboard hulls, and I bought and sold a hull that didn't work like a hull should. So I think my cutback is best felt and not seen. I wish some of the more "hull-y" waves around here weren't so crowded, or that I could find an uncrowded one.

Then the Mandala Surfboards blog has a board with a description that fits me pretty well, "super fun combination for the aging shredder or aspiring lip blaster" The only problem is, I was never much of a shredder, but I'm an aging aspiring lip blaster! The shape is not far from the Vernor TreeHugger I've been ridding, although probably more sharp around the edges and certainly for a smaller old guy.

The uncrowded waves I've been riding are a bit more challenging than what I can handle on a longboard or hull, but within my abilities on a modern, hard-railed, multi-fined board. And that's the whole point of this blog, the right board for the right conditions. :)