I almost forgot...

Surfing last weekend was so blah that I almost forgot to record it. There was a decent south swell due to arrive Saturday afternoon. JB and I debated whether we would surf both Sunday and the Monday holiday. By sundown on Saturday the swell hadn't arrived, and we realized Sunday morning probably wouldn't deliver. Monday became our best option. At around 5am on Monday, when we're each gathering ourselves to drive to the beach, I got a text from JB saying he had food poisoning. As I drove up the coast I considered what that meant. I parked at G-rock and watched the waves not deal well with the too low tide. I thought how G's might be better, but I didn't want to get so far hidden all alone. I decided to wait for the tide to fill in at the rock and go there. If anything happened to me, there's always some people around on the beach and in the parking lot. Two guys showed up to check it also and they decided to go to little rock. Close enough to see each other, but two completely different waves. I agreed that little rock looked better, but I wanted to see if the main left would get better as the tide filled in.

The swell didn't really fill in as the tide was rising. There were occasional sets of a few waves and within that sometimes one of them would line-up correctly. I was only able to get a few waves after an hour because the peaks were shifty, or maybe the water was swirling and moving me around. I couldn't tell because there was just enough fog that I couldn't see my line-ups off the cliff. I ended up getting frustrated and going in before I got tired. I felt like the spot needs more swell because on this day only the biggest broke how I like.

When I decided to go in I paddled around the rock and rode a right on my belly. It wasn't half bad, so I walked out onto the rock to do it again. I found I could stand on the rock watching the sets come in. When a wave looked good I would jump off the rock and a few strokes to the peak. I rode a few that way, but because I was on my TH (instead of a longboard) all I could do was nurse the wave trying to stay with it. It wasn't quite good enough for me to hike up and get my surfmat out of the car.

So I had a bad session, but afterwards I felt I had learned something. On days like this, it's probably better at G's than at G-rock. So next time, I'll go to G's without hesitation. Once I'm there, I won't wonder if it's better at the rock!