Saturday, July 31, 2021

Surf mat

It’s been awhile since I’ve been on my surf mat. I still check the surfmatters.blogspot.com website almost daily, and I still look at waves through the surf mat lens. The left I’ve been riding so much would probably be good on a mat. I also want the full body workout of surfing with swim fins. So, I dug out the fins and got ready. This weekend is family camping so no surf. Luckily there was a mixup and I took Friday off work even though camping was Saturday. I used the opportunity to surf!

My plan was to go to the left, but I had low expectations because there was almost zero north waves and only a 2’@15 from 180. I thought it would be a good idea to check the big rock to get a reference data point. When I got there it looked pretty good. Both the inside right and outside left looked like fun. Soon another person came and checked the waves and as she was walking away I asked if she was going to surf, so I didn’t have to risk it all alone. She said no, but her friends were on the way and they would. We chatted a bit more and good waves kept coming about 10-min between sets. The friends showed up abs seemed friendly and full of good vibes. I get my gear and took the walk down the steep hill, figuring they would be out soon. I got a couple not great waves on the right as the others paddled out on their longboards. In just a few waves I could tell they knew what they were doing and I thought I would be happier trying my luck on the outside left. It took a minute for me to get it figured out but my first wave I made was a long speedy shoulder. I continued to get waves, sometimes two in a set, and the sets kept coming. I had fun, and was exhausted in about an hour. I was using muscles I forgot I had, and I’m glad I did because it makes me want to do it more and get stronger.

So, new spot, good vibes, surf mat, and waves exceeding expectations. A great day in small waves!

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