A good one

I did some gardening and some surfboard repair on Saturday. The repair was frustraiting because I was distracted, uncovering more problems as I went, and generally not into it. But still, progress was made. 

Sunday was the surf day and we made a good choice. Although the swell peaked on Saturday, the north coast was windy. Sunday dawn still had plenty of waves and no wind. We surfed Tres mile on the high side of the tide. Dealing with some backwash and shorter period swell, but still something to work with. I got my share of waves and so did JB. All around a good session. 

Afterwards I went and paid $60 for a Royalex hull. Someone had stripped everything off the hull, the gunwales, decks, thwarts and seats. The guy who had it never got around to buying any of the replacement parts and had given up on the project. I took it on and my plan is to go with vinyl gunwales and repairing the old seats I have. I'll make the decks myself out of wood, but I'll need to buy thwarts because I don't have any hardwood on hand. The first task is sourcing the gunwales and getting them shipped for something less than $300! 

 Edit: I had to come back to this. Later on Monday my legs were feeling tired and I banged them a little with my fists to loosen up the muscle. Instead, my thighs threatened to cramp. This reminded me of the most noteworthy part of my session, bottom-turns. I had a few kinda late drops on overhead waves. On those, my legs didn't respond like I wanted them to. They are too weak and the extension during the end of the bottom turn was delayed as my legs waited for the g-forces to lessen. I remember this feeling from many, many years ago when I had a 7'4" min-gun and I was first riding shortboards and big waves. Longboarding small waves never tested my legs and I was suddenly feeling to weak to do what needed to be done. Every once in awhile I get compressed on a drop, but yesterday it was nearly every wave. So I am once again doing more squats during breaks from the computer.