Spanked

The conditions were great for "at the limit" Tres mile. I opted for the Channin 8-ft something pipeliner. My last surf at this spot on this board was great with smooth slides into big long walls. The next session on the board was at Scott's, and wasn't so good. I had trouble getting waves that day, and surfing that reef with low tide and some chop made it even harder. So, with those two data points in mind, I really thought I was going to have another great session back at the spot that went so well before.

I didn't.

This time the waves were breaking harder. This time I tried to surf a different part of the reef. This time there were more people to contend with. And finally, this time I had bad luck.

The waves were breaking harder and I thought I could handle it. I paddled up to the top of the reef where the drop can be more sudden, but the section to surf was hollow. I swear I saw a make-able barrel, and its rare for any barrel to appear at this break. I worked my way up to the top and tried for a few smaller waves to get my first wave of the day. After missing one, a set broke out the back. JB had been sitting further out and over to the shoulder than where I was trying to catch a small one. He barely made it under the first wave and I took the broken wave on the head. I knew there was no way to fight through the mess so I let them hit me and tried not to drift to far in. The waves kept coming, maybe 6 in the set, and I just washed in to the calmer inside waters. When the set finally passed I paddled sideways to the channel and worked my way back out.

I sat on the inside bowl to catch my breath. I missed a wave or two and got ants in my pants, so I paddled back to the top where JB was. This time I didn't make the mistake of trying for smaller waves and instead waited for a set. JB got a good one, and then a big set it. I tried to make it over but once again I took a multi-wave underwater ride to the inside. Again I was patient and waited to get over to the channel. This time JB was sitting on the inside bowl and I had given up on the outside point. I sat with him and even though it had only been an hour, he said he was ready to go in. I told him I wanted to actually ride a few waves before going in. After about 10-min waiting for waves, a sense of unease hit me. It wasn't "shark," but I don't know what it was. The big waves had me being careful, but I wasn't scared. But now I didn't feel right. I told JB I changed my mind and was ready to go in. He caught a good one on the inside bowl, and more were coming. I tried for one but the nose lifted and I got pushed out. The next one was good two and I was in okay position, so I tried for it. The inside bowl often stands up then rolls for a bit before breaking. This one never backed off. I made it to my feet but they landed on the tail and although I made the drop I was completely out of control. I looked at the wonderful big wave breaking off in front of me just before I fell.

I let the white-water wash me into the beach where I caught up with JB. And that was it. One wave that I got to my feet and then nothing else. Another humbling experience served up by the Pacific.

On the other hand, JZ picked up a used board for me, JB got it from JZ, and then brought it to me. It's a 70's era Downing-Hennessey. I don't know anything about the shaper(s). It's interesting to be because it has the early 70's down rails but more of an egg or funboard outline. Single fin, sunburnt, dinged up, and delamed. I'm going to get it water-tight and surf. I'd like to make it look pretty, but I'm not sure I have time. Too many other "to-do" items I also want to do, but just don't.