You should have been here yesterday

"Not glassy like yesterday." said the guy who pulled up next to us. We were looking at junk trying to motivate ourselves to go get some exercise, dealing with the knowledge that Town was firing yesterday. We didn't want to go surf with the Town crowds, but didn't know where to go to get away from the junky conditions. A hard pill to swallow knowing this was the peak of what was probably one of the top 3 south swells of the summer.

The swell was forecast to peak Saturday night, so Sunday morning looked like a good bet. Unfortunately, there was junk on the ocean from winds somewhere north of us. The north coast looked terrible with the north cross chop breaking up the lines of the south swell. Add to it that I was trying to explore new options for a big south and I was lost trying to figure out where to surf. JB and I forced it at Scott's reef and it was worse than it looked from the road. Even inside a bit there was still cross-chop breaking up the waves. It also seemed like the south wasn't really hitting it. We bailed after 45min of trying to make it work and went in opposite directions. I went to the right inside of dog rock. From what I understand it is really a novelty wave, not great even at its best. But the strong north wind had come up and this is one spot that faces into the north wind so it was blowing offshore. I took out the TH with the quad setup and was able to catch a few. It was really frustrating because the best waves were the mid-sized ones while the sets were breaking across the top of the reef and just rolling along the edge. I caught some mid-sized ones and got a decent ride, but when I cutback the offshore wind pushed against the board hard and was difficult to control. Normally the solution would be to use the wave face to balance against the winds and make turns at steeper faces, but the wave didn't have much room for that. I ended up just sorta milking whatever I could out of whatever waves I got. I think it would be more fun either on a longboard to be able to paddle around more, or on the surfmat to be able to takeoff in the whitewater.

Word from JB was that the landing was fun. So, next time we'll do that instead of forcing Scott's.