I've been sick. Really sick, for a long time. It started with a flu that laid me out flat, home sick for 5 days. This was followed by a three weeks and counting of a nagging, sometimes exhausting cold. In that time I've surfed three sessions at Linda Mar that have been surprisingly satisfying. The first two were about the same of 4-6' in front of the bathrooms to TacoBell. Nice walls that were make-able, with some crowd. I've been on the Haut2 and it was the right board for the days. I even got a narrel on an inside peak. I caught it late and behind, stood up forward on the board and stayed low as the lip tried to toss over me.
Today was the third session in a row at Linda Mar. LM has fun, smaller, weaker waves than most of what is around here so it's perfect for someone still fighting a cold. Today was a bit smaller, but I had the GeeBee out and was doing fine on it. We surfed the same spot, but with the small size we got bored and paddled/walked north. There was a good bowl one peak short of the far north end. It was holding a bowl/wall up to 6' with good shape. The crowd was a hassle, but I got a few good ones anyway. I even got another narrel on a left. I dropped in at an angle, grabbed the rail and the lip hit my outside shoulder before the wave dissolved in the channel.
I feel okay, but tired so I think I'll have to go home early today :)
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