The forecast last Thursday was for big getting bigger, and my window of opportunity limited me to Ocean Beach. I hit VFWs before dawn and waited for the light to show me what was there. I took my time and thoroughly applied base coat to the Buttons board, carefully installed the fin in the box with the tip ~1/2" back from one fin base from the tail of the board, and tied the new leash string tight and short.
The paddle out wasn't easy but I made it. Compared to the Haut, this board is narrower, with more float, which gives it an unstable feel when paddling out, kinda like at the top of a round buoy. It duck dives under waves, but the float distribution is different and requires a few shifts in technique. By the time I made it out I had about 100 yards to paddle to get back to the peak I wanted.
There were about 4 others out, and we were all chasing waves and catching few. This board feels different when paddling for a wave. I need to be more in the longboard/single-fin mind-set of sitting a bit further out and paddling for the waves earlier. The board doesn't want to spin and drop, that's for sure.
I got into one and the board felt stiff, as expected, but solid and stable. I softly leaned on the rails and there was little to no response with the board wanting to hold it's line. The waves had some junk on them and were 6-8'. I caught 3 smaller ones before getting stuck inside for a long set. I decided to beach and walk back to a channel.
Once on the beach I walked back to where I had paddled out before and waited, and waited, and watched 2 other guys get washed in, and waited. There was never enough of a break in the ever increasing sets for me to think I could make it back out. I gave up.
By the time I was dressed there was only one guy out and I could hardly see him between waves. Everyone else had ended up the same as me, the waves were solid 8', and the junk in the water was making things look rough.
I look forward to better conditions and a session with more waves to give the board another try.
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