The new Haut was ready and I picked it up last Sunday. I had to stop at a field sight afterwards and I didn't have much room in my car, and I didn't want to ride the board until it had "curred" a bit more, and I wanted to surf at dawn to dodge the crowds. All that added up to one more session on the surf mat. I went into town before sun-up and was surprised at how well the swell was making it in. I didn't check my favorite little cove cause it hasn't been good the last several times I checked it. What I saw in town wasn't exciting and I made an unusual call to pack up and hike into 3-mile. The fog was still thick and I knew I wouldn't be able to check it from the cliff. I hiked in with all my gear (a touch lighter than normal with my new Neofins) and went all the way down to the beach 1/2 way to the point. I still couldn't see the take-off zone through the fog, but I decided even the small insiders looked good enough for me, so I suited up and inflated the mat.
As the fog cleared and I got several waves I realized that it was a perfect day for the mat. The surfers in the water were not too aggressive and not too skilled, the paddle out was easy around the shoulder, and the waves were kinda wobbly blah. They would roll along, then jack up and flop over, then either die in the channel or occasionally roll along all the way to the inside. Weird. The whole time I was out there I only saw one guy get 2-3 waves that I would have liked to have ridden standing up (or kneeboard even.)
I moved off by myself deeper into the bowl and caught the medium (2-3ft) waves that would bowl and sometimes connect. I caught as many waves as were worth ridding and never had a problem with the minor crowd that developed. (Not even a crowd really, more like a group.)
After a fun session I headed into town to grab a bite to eat and pick up my board. Lester was working at the shop (haven't seen him in awhile) and we chatted a bit. He said the swell was making it into that cove that I didn't check. (DAM! I would have liked to surf there this morning because I've never tried it on the surf mat on a south.) The board looked good and I got a set of plastic Futures Vector II fins, a bit o' wax, and a new leash with the board. Now it's sitting in a bag and doing cycles in the passenger seat of my car to try to cure the glass. (Not too hot!)
I took some photos but they all are blurry. I'll have to set-up the hallway chair again and do a real board update like the others.
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