The kneeboard. Shapers dimensions 5'8", 16" nose, 21 1/4" wide, 13" tail, 2 7/16" thick. I first got to thinking about a kneeboard while living in New York on Long Island for a few years. My closest beach was a real snappy beach break. Often smaller than 4" with waves that would throw and race away from me on my chippy thruster before I could get to my feet and in control. To make matters worse I wasn't getting to surf very often due to the distance, workload at school, and incosistancy of waves, so I wasn't enjoying surfing very much. I spent a lot of time on the internet and started learning about alternate ways of surfing. Kneeboarding, bodysurfing, mat surfing, paipos, handboards, pieces of driftwood. I found a kneeboarder that had a board to loan me and I gave it a try. We got lucky on a head high day during the week and we were the only ones out at a left hander that was a touch mushy. I had no problem catching and making waves right from the start. When I got back to California I bought one of my own.
For awhile I was riding this kneeboard several times a week. I learned of a hard breaking reef break that barreled. I surfed it first on a kneeboard and had a great time in the very challenging waves. I came back with a stand-up board and couldn't make the drop, or if I did couldn't make the bottom turn to get to the face before the lip came over. Back to the kneeboard and I was just fine, pushing myself into the barrel. I met another kneeboarder and we surfed other spots together, often just the two of us in waves with real kick. For me the kneeboard allows me to make late drops in complete control. It allows me to get into a small crouch and try for the barrel. Also, paddling a kneeboard you can use your arms or your swim fins, or both when the wave is picking you up to catch it. Because of this I can catch waves earlier that most shortboarders, and just as late if not later because I'm so stable on the kneeboard. A win-win.
Pros: Catch more waves, stay out longer cause I can use my arms and legs to paddle, make late drops and pull into barrels, solid and stable when the lip hits me so I can make it through whitewater sections.
Cons: Hassling from other surfers, really needs powerful waves to appreciate, harder to do cut backs, floaters, and other "tricks" that I'm not doing much of anyway.
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