New Camera

I got a GoPro as a gift. It's not the newest, it's a 960 I think it what it's called. Anyway, JZ has suggested we go for a surf with one person shooting from the water while the other surfs, then switch. I'm down for it, and I'll get by swimfins ready to go. So, with a break in the rain, expect some seriously distorted fish eye images appearing soon on this very blog.

Irony

Last year around this time I was spending too much time at work. I'd get full of anxious energy and when the surf was good I would charge. Well, I would try to charge, but because I was spending my days at a desk I wouldn't get far. Still, I had the full intention of getting myself into some big, gnarly waves, it was all I wanted when the beach cleaned up on a weekend day. This year I have been hitting the gym to get into shape to track down the big waves. I've taken an extra day off each week and surfed that morning. I've gotten into some good sized waves and for the most part handled myself. Now here's the irony; because I've been getting exercise, I really don't feel the need to charge big waves. The exercise that puts me into a position to achive the goal also makes me feel more satisfied in life and less in need of that excitement.
The good news is I can handle 8-10' OB, and anything smaller. I can go out and pick the size range I want to surf (even if it's not the biggest I can see) and go enjoy myself. Last weekend I chose 6' range breaking kinda soft. After I got a few I began working my way towards the size until I found some waves that were exciting enough without being too punishing. There was more size down the beach, and it was breaking hard enough down there that there weren't many takers. Those that were on it were getting great rides. And today is my day off and I've decided not to make the drive out to the beach, although it's perfectly surf-able. I'm gonna do some housework and pay some bills and try to take care of home life.

Would you rather...

The problem with not being rich is that I have to choose between a surf tour of Oaxaca and a new surfboard. Too bad I've convinced myself that I need a new board for the waves I dream of getting on this surf tour.
We've had an extended run of better than usual surf up at OB. Combined with my extra day off work and between surf exercise, I've been getting some pretty good waves lately. It's too the point that I'm starting to feel satisfied, which is good because there is change in the air. There is a storm forecast for next Thursday so I may not get surf. Looking at the extra long forecast, it kinda looks like after a few storms things will go back to sunny and offshore.
JZ is slipping. He was a hardcore addict of his Stoneman fish shape, having surfed through several of them in the past 5+ years. On the last one he ordered he ventured away from the proven shape and tried something a bit different, and was disappointed. Meanwhile I was going through my Pacheco purchase and trying to convince him that if he got the Stoneman fish shape done by Hess (i.e. Kunkle fish) then he would still be surfing the same board. His argument is one of short term finances, which is understandable, but my argument of long term savings still holds true as well. He's had a few sessions on boards Danny loaned me (barreled), on my Pacheco which he enjoyed, and just this weekend Danny let him borrow a 5'11" Pacheco of his own that he's ready to sell. We've got a nibble, I hope we can set the hook and get JZ to buy this board from Danny.
Yesterday JZ and I had a nice morning session. Things started more exciting and actually softened as the tide dropped. Waves got more inconsistent, but I persistently held position waiting for a particular bowl. It paid off with a smooth narrel. I was too deep so I paddled across to the peak as it came in. Nobody was around and I held back the drop and took a high line a bit behind the peak. I semi-side-slipped smoothly down the face as the lip came over, my hand dragging vertically downward as the wave grew upward. In an instant it was over with only a brief glimpse of lip over my head, but not between me and the beach. It felt great, but each time I replay it I think I could have held the line from deeper and think I should have not paddled so far across it. I'll try again!

Body (injury) Count

Since pushing my limits for better waves, I've suffered the following which are still noticable or painfull.

Hyper-extended elbow from doing bar dips at the gym. (Mostly healed)

Persistant (5+weeks) cough after a 2.5 hour session in good waves.
Pulled stomach muscles from coughing so hard. (Still bothers me.)

Upper shoulder/back strain from a long surf session in good waves. (50% healed)

Minor whiplash from Saturday session. (Getting better everyday.)

This is mostly due to the string of great surf we've been having. I've been pushing myself to get as much out of every session as I can, and I've been paying the price. Tomorrow we're due for a Big swell that will light up SC John St. area. I can go, it would be possible, but I'm so beat down I'm thinking I wont make it. I think it's time to rehabilitate myself. Maybe some light work at the gym and walking around for simple exercise, but mostly letting my upper body heal. (Not to mention the stomach flu, which seems like it will be a 12-24 hour kind, because I'm much better already.)

The learning process

On Saturday the wind was offshore and the waves were in the 8' range at mid-beach. I considered going north for less size, but ended up going out into the heaviest spot I'd seen that morning. I brought out the 7'5" thinking I could get into the waves earlier and handle the pitching lips that way. Once I got out there I found out that the waves were rolling along, not catchable, until hitting the bar and throwning over with heavy force. I had the most intense half-hour of surfing since Puerto at about the same size. The only difference is I was making waves in Puerto, OB was kicking my ass. It was too the point to make me worry about my health and I only stayed out for an hour, which was two waves made and many more getting drilled.
The next day I returned to similar condiitons but around 6' on most waves. I made the decision to go with the Quintara, the smallest board I own, and was glad I did. What I think is that the smaller board has less force pulling it up the face of the wave and so drops more easily when the waves are sucking out suddenly. I ended up making all my waves, and almost getting barreled. (JZ did better than almost, as did a few other guys out there.)
So next time it's 8' and throwing I'll go out on the small board and see what it will do for me. I am getting into better shape so I can handle the paddling better.

The thing about Hess boards is...

So I've got myself a solid quiver of Hess boards. If I could I would fill in the spot between the 6' Quintara and the 7'5" Noriega with a 6'10"-ish Quintara or Lola. For those days when the smaller boards would leave me drifting with the current, but the 7'5" is more than is needed.
So except that, I don't really have an excuse to go board shopping. I have retained the habit of watching the web for Hess boards and there is a board for sale in Southern California that is very similar to my Pacheco, and for a great price $650! I want to buy it just because it's a great price, and if I could expect the other Pacheco to fall apart in a few years I would make arrangements for the "back-up" board. But I can't fool myself that these Hess boards will be falling apart any time this decade, or ever under my feet. I can imagine giving these boards away to someone who hasn't even been born yet, some kid who I help learn to surf.
So I will hold off on this other Pacheco and keep an eye out for a 6'10"-ish board with slimmer hips than the Pacheco but more paddle than my Quintara. In fact if anyone is out there, I'd trade my 6'1" Quintara for a 6'6" to 7' Lola or Quintara. Please!

Catch-up on events

Surfed Blacks 2 ft fun warm sunny, not classic Blacks.

Bought a new wetsuit. Went with the same model as last time (oneil mutant) because it fit perfectly. This one is 5/4 and has a better chest closing system. I was complaining about the old one and how it would come loose and the guy at the shop said, "That hasn't happened since the first year they made those suits." We talked more and I found out the suit I'd been wearing was 4+ years old. Not a bad run! With the new suit being thicker and not leaking water I'm sitting out there overheated sometimes. Nice.

Surfed OB several times in December, size range 6-10'. Got the Noriega semi-gun in the water and made some bigger drops, pulled into smaller tubes, paddled against the current and succeeded! Reminded myself that when the waves are 8'+ you have to paddle down the face a few extra strokes. Offshore winds and sunny days!

Picked up a nagging cough that has been sapping my energy making the 6-8' days at OB more of a struggle than they should be. Still fighting it, and hitting the gym, gonna surf tomorrow if it looks good.

Surfed John St. in SC. Not classic, or even very good. More people than should have been out for the conditions. The swell was too north, and the next cove up was 8'+ with a small, scattered crowd. Would have been the call and I might have survived even with the low energy from this cough. Maybe not...

At some point at the gym I hyper-extended my elbow. I should let it rest, but I'm still doing everything I normally do, but at least I'm not doing bar dips, which is when it happened. I'm also adding bicep curls to my workout to try to prevent it from happening again. I also realized that just cardio at the gym isn't enough for a surf workout. I need to do strength/endurance work on my arms, and a bit of strength training on my legs and core. If I start going regularly I should consider making a plan/schedule of what/when/how much.

Spending the poor quality surf days on the smallest board would also be a good idea, as would bodysurfing if conditions dictate.